Hearst Ranch

Thus, if the land is not going to be developed, as any property rights person might argue, Hearst should have some right to make a decision with land their family has held since around 1865. Enter Roger Lyon.

From High on the Hill. Photo Courtesy Gary Felsman:
hearstranchconservation.org

A weathered rancher and surfer who escaped up to this gorgeous corner of California years ago, Lyon has been representing the Hearst family in negotiations with the State since the Coastal Commission turned down the Hearst's development plan. Rolling up the grassy hillsides above San Simeon, he points out exotic Indian mountain goats and even a few zebras that William Randolph Hearst once brought here for a private zoo, but now roam wild on the property. "At one time, the ranch was 270,000 acres," he says, "it included most of the Big Sur coast and Fort Hunter Liggett."

Photo Courtesy Gary Felsman:
hearstranchconservation.org

He points to the 4,200 foot airstrip upon which Mr. Hearst used to land his DC-3's, and indicates just how huge a chunk of coast that could potentially be turned into state parkland. Behind us, stretching for 15 miles eastward, the ranch sprawls across hills and arroyos so beautiful that they literally take your breath away. Toward the ocean, almost everything you can see is Hearst Ranch. This includes areas south of the town of San Simeon, San Simeon Point (the beautiful cove you can see down below the castle) up to Point Piedras Blancas (with its huge, guano-covered rocks) along to Ragged Point. The west side of the PCH is a jaw dropping 20 mile, 1800 acre stretch that includes a number of often windblown surf spots like Cardiacs, Pico Creek and amazing wind and kite-surfing areas. "Camp Pendleton," says Lyon, "is the only place as far as miles of single ownership that I can think of."

However, most of Camp Pendleton is off-limits.

Lyon explains that almost all of the west side stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway would go from private to public access. While access issues that deal with things like parking and overcrowding are still sticking points, the bottom line is that a great deal of land that could one day be developed would be protected in perpetuity. For a long time, zoning has been in place that would allow for 27 new homes and a 100-room inn along San Simeon Point. This development would be allowed, but the public would also be granted some sort of access to the point -- an incredible place that's currently off-limits. As for the vast balance of land on the eastern side of the PCH that stretches inland some fifteen miles, this would be placed under what's known as a conservation easement, but would not be publicly accessible. What this means is that the Hearsts would be paid to leave the land undeveloped. They would be allowed to go on ranching it, the substantial wildlife could go on living there and you would be allowed to continue to have an astonishing, undeveloped view from the lineup.

But the reason that this may not be the case where the Hearst Ranch is concerned comes in the fact that this opportunity is not going to be around forever. The Hearsts have already extended the three-year negotiating timetable for an agreement on this purchase and on the different elements of public coastal access that would go along with it. Thus, there is a real impetus in getting this thing done.

Clean Upstream Watershed. Photo Courtesy Gary Felsman:
hearstranchconservation.org

Interestingly, one agreement that the Hearsts made with the state was over a rapidly expanding elephant seal habitat near Point Piedras Blancas. In the early 90's, there were hardly any elephant seals, Yet, during this year's wintertime breeding season, over 2,000 pups were born. On the day we visited, many had already taken back to sea, but a sizeable group of these hollering, Volkswagen-sized animals continued to lounge on the beach. Many were mothers nursing their young. The fenced dirt parking area and walking trails here, said Lyon, was negotiated with Caltrans to create a safer environment for the seals and humans. "This was the compromise," he said. "Before these turnouts, people were taking their kids out among the seals. There were tour busses stopping in the travel lane and letting fifty people out at a time."

He said that overcrowding of these sensitive beaches was exactly the sort of problem the Hearsts hope to avoid in negotiating public access issues here with the state. Still, he said, whatever agreement is reached, you'll be able to visit a great deal more of the coast here legally than you ever could before. That includes the area's surf spots.

Point Piedras Blancas. Photo Courtesy Gary Felsman:
hearstranchconservation.org

Should the state make the purchase? Regardless of whether you feel this is a good expenditure of taxpayer money, it is undeniably a historic opportunity. If it seems like a good idea to you, then perhaps you should take a look at this website: Hearstranchconservation.org . It gives you several ways to contact those in charge of this purchase, so you can make your voice heard on the issue.

Additional Points of View:

The Los Angeles Times Weighs in.

The San Diego Union Tribune Weighs in