THE SURFER INTERVIEW: ANDY IRONS


After A Very Public Meltdown This Fall, Irons Looks Forward To Leaving 2008 Behind Him

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Andy Irons will spend 2009 away from the World Tour. The question is, when he returns, will he still have the eye of the tiger?
Andy Irons will spend 2009 away from the World Tour. The question is, when he returns, will he still have the eye of the tiger?

This past fall, it seemed like Andy Irons was coming apart in front of our eyes. In early September 2008, at the Boost Mobile Pro at Trestles, he was visibly agitated. In his heats, his body English was that of someone who had already lost mentally—a far cry from the heat-winning machine that reeled off three back-to-back world titles in the mid-2000s. The man who had humbled Kelly Slater in the early years of his comeback was eliminated in perfect Lower Trestle’s peaks by event wildcard Yadin Nichol, and one didn’t have to be an insider to know that something was wrong.

The Quiksilver Pro France eleven days later was even worse. In his Round One heat against Jordy Smith and Brazilian Jihad Khodr, the former three-time event winner melted down. In three-to-five-foot waves at Les Estagnots, Irons seemed unable to complete even the most basic of top turns, and his frustration was tangible, as he began flinging his board into the open faces of waves. He finished the heat in last place with a 2.34 combined wave score out of a possible 20, withdrew from the contest, and was on a flight back to the States within 24 hours.

When he didn’t show up for the Billabong Pro Mundaka—the second event of the European leg of the World Tour—the rumor mill went into overdrive, accusing Irons of everything from petulance to chemical dependency. Shocked by the response, in early October he agreed to an interview with Surfline.com’s Lewis Samuels in which he argued his case, but also admitted, “I am not the guy who wants to eat you for breakfast anymore when we are in heats together.” But the most telling passage in the conversation came when he stated, “What people don’t understand is that I’m just as confused as they are.”

In November, with the support of his long-time sponsor Billabong and the blessings of both the ASP and the WPS (the organization that represents and looks out for the interests of the surfers on the World Tour), Irons applied for and obtained a wildcard slot for the 2010 season, effectively allowing him a year off the tour without having to requalify through the WQS. It’s only the second wildcard of it’s kind, the first granted to Kelly Slater in 2003, when he decided he wanted to return to full-time competition after a three-year hiatus.

“They voted unanimously to give me the wildcard,” Irons told me when I went to visit him on Kauai in early December. “They were all for it. I’m really thankful and excited, even though I don’t know what exactly to expect.”

On a warm and sunny Monday afternoon, Irons picked me up and took me with him to shoot nine holes of golf at a course just minutes from his home in Princeville. Though he had committed to surfing in the upcoming Billabong Pipeline Masters, he seemed relaxed and stoked about his upcoming year of chasing swell, the first time in a dozen years that he wasn’t committed to the grind of the tour. —J.P.

So what really happened in France?

I think Europe breaks people. If you’re on a bad one, that place really makes it bad! A lot of people have lost it there. It’s crunch time. You’ve got three events in a row [Trestles, France, Mundaka], and if you’re already in a bad place, the Europe leg can make it a lot worse. I got to France, surfed that one awful heat, and left the next day. I couldn’t handle it; I was outta there.

What was going through your mind?

The first round I had Jordy and Jihad in my heat, and I was out there looking in, and, even though France is an event I’ve always loved, I was literally miserable. I didn’t know what was wrong, but I knew I had to get outta there. It all started in J-Bay. I had just got back from a trip with Kelly, and we’d got killer waves and had a lot of fun. I was trying to get motivated to surf the contest, but as it got closer, I started getting less and less excited.

Once I got there and was back in the middle of the whole circus, it seemed so phony to me. I mean, it was great to see friends—Parko and the boys, and Occy was there, which was awesome—but I’d look in and see the circus tent, and then come in and do the post-heat interview. The whole thing just didn’t seem...real. I remember thinking, “What am I doing?”

I used to be psyched to come in from a heat, do the interview, and get ready for the next round, but it had become so repetitious. I was saying the same answers, “I hope I do good in the next heat, I hope I do better, I really want to get a nine...”

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READER COMMENTS


Tue Jan27, 2009, 11:37 AM

Good on ya Andy. You deserve a well earned break and whether you return to the tour or not we all still stoked on you and your surfing. -dustin from Chekalooka surf shop Seattle.


Tue Jan27, 2009, 11:46 AM

...meow I am tired of hearing pro-surfers whine about the "stress" of competing. What's he going to do now? Get a real job? No, freesurf and travel. Life is rough.


Tue Jan27, 2009, 1:03 PM

I think that if you watch Andy surf in Trilogy, nothing more needs to be said about why he is a 3xs world champion, and also why he has earned the opportunity to step off the tour for a year, and maintain his position. I also think that the surf community was ridiculous when it chastised him for wanting to win, passionately. The Curren ideology that professional surfers were "selling out" is completely illogical—considering TC happily signed on with OP over smaller companies at the time, because they offered more money. Pro surfers are paid performers... Just like football, baseball, soccer, etc. Hell, even golf. Does anyone ever say Tom Brady is selling out because he gets paid to play football, and wants to win every game? Or Tiger Woods? Are they criticized for that? Personally, I think Andy is one of the least complicated guys on tour, and least "affected". He doesn't pose to be anything other than himself, and there are allot of us who would like to be even remotely close to tha


Tue Jan27, 2009, 2:07 PM

He's got a bad case of the "beschen burn out". A year off will do him good. That tour is harder to deal with than people know. Sounds awesome to us known pro's, but there is a ton of pressure from your sponsors, not to mention the pressure you put on yourself. Some of those guys just go on tour & re-qualify or barely re-qualify year after year. It doesn't really matter to them, they are just happy to be there. The guy who expects to win, but doesn't is more than likely to have a mini nervous break down at some point. All of that being said, I would still trade desk job for his job any day of the week. We all look forward to a fresh Andy in 2010.


Tue Jan27, 2009, 6:05 PM

Sounds like Andy's really cleaning up his act. Good luck to him!


Wed Jan28, 2009, 3:16 AM

I want to take a year off and surf perfect waves! Damn. Andy, relax brother and enjoy, we love ya.


Wed Jan28, 2009, 10:22 AM

if i had to surf against slater all the time, watching him get to 9 titles, i'd be tired of being a runner-up too. love 'em or hate 'em, slater's a beast and that beats people down (i.e. andy, taj, parko, mick). slater's in all these guys' heads...


Wed Jan28, 2009, 12:04 PM

Wonderfully insightful article from Andy Irons. His quote, "You can only stay focused for so long" really struck a chord with me. Rarely do I read about pro surfers who reveal the truths about the heavy pressures on the WCT. How cool to read that Andy is still on good terms with Kelly Slater, especially since they've competed so fiercly over the years. May Andy's extended family and break from the tour give the guy renewed strength.


Wed Jan28, 2009, 1:16 PM

Tweakers always make excuses ,get off the sh#^*, get your act together, slow your partying way down, your one of the best surfers in the world with the BEST job, stop your snivelling and grow up. If I sponcered you,no work or contest results no pay,no money, no freebys too many hungry upcomers focased on replacing you. Boo the f#%&% hoo!!


Wed Jan28, 2009, 1:32 PM

Andy, your turns will never be matched by anyone, I still to this day marvel at the intensity and grace you have and always will. Although Kelly may have won a few contests, he will never look as good cranking a turn at the top of a wave as you do. Your bottom turns are unreal with better timing and you set the wave up way more. I often see Kelly looking like he is falling, YOU NEVER LOOK LIKE THAT! Your vertical spray is like no other, I too am going through a doldrums, I am just an average surfer from Encinitas but am trying to get it back, I try very hard to surf with "the right people" Your tube riding can't be beat as well, not even Bruce! I mean every word I say to you and this is not a pump up, YOU RIP, don't ever try to live up to the old days, ride a different board and forget about everyone; go alone if you have to. God never gives us anything we can't handle, just be Andy and nothing else. Marriage can have it's way on land, get back to loving the water and God.


Wed Jan28, 2009, 4:37 PM

One of the very few interesting things about these guys is the mindset it takes to surf competitively as well and consistently as they do - nice job on getting to that bit, Joel. AI, you're just a bit burnt out and depressed. Get your diet and exercise right and you'll be back in no time. Watching you surf is like watching a knife fight. We look forward to seeing you "cut something real bad" real soon.


Wed Jan28, 2009, 4:44 PM

Andy, just take it one day at a time. The drive and happiness for the sport will come back to you sooner than later. I'm sure it can be stressful at times just like anything else. It comes with the territory. Well anyways, good luck!


Wed Jan28, 2009, 7:01 PM

ANDY GO RIP IT ps can i come kauai?


Wed Jan28, 2009, 5:11 PM

have a great year off bro you deserve it !!just make sure you come out in 2010 with all guns blazing be great to see you in Ireland on your year out be sure to look me up n we can go have some fun big best wishes mikee 007


Wed Jan28, 2009, 5:18 PM

It's not only easy to be on the top but also to stay on the top. Go on bro, stay fit, get some professional advices, do some yoga, take the year to prepare yourself: "mens sana in corpore sano". Liked the sincerity about your issues. Keep your head up and good look. Rodrigo - Florianopolis - SC - Brazil


Wed Jan28, 2009, 6:15 PM

I understand Andy's Mind. Media reality sucks. Time to enjoy everyday without a full plate on you platter. Wake up late check the surf and do whatever your heart desires. You an Animal Andy when you want to be. You proved yourself. Don't fight it and ride that wave we call life, E


Thu Jan29, 2009, 12:30 AM

Crybaby, poor you,


Thu Jan29, 2009, 4:42 AM

I hope your surfing gets even more great. BTW, now Kekoa is gonna have to win the title.


Thu Jan29, 2009, 11:05 AM

Watch out! When great men go thought dark times they come out even brighter than before. Expect great things from this man.


Thu Jan29, 2009, 12:55 PM

Eh haole, no can handle... beat it


Thu Jan29, 2009, 3:13 PM

Boohoo..you violent ahole..are you depressed..oh little spoiled baby has a booboo..well thats why its called work and not fun! You deserve a beat down, I hope karma gets you good.


Thu Jan29, 2009, 6:26 PM

Time for new goal that means something to you--or career change, that's allowed. Love your wife, start a family, invest time in someone else. Dorian gets it. Bono gets it.


Thu Jan29, 2009, 7:28 PM

Dont worry about all the negitive you are getting from people man. you have so many fans and people who support you, you have always been my fav surfer, and that dont change just cause your not on the tour next year. Good luck. Brandon sa texas


Fri Jan30, 2009, 1:16 AM

AI, you deserve the break for what you have given to surfing. F the kooks who give you a bad time. At 43 and surfing for 25 + years...still shortboarding...I am inspired by your surfing and dedication.


Fri Jan30, 2009, 6:21 AM

That's actually the least retarded, most honest, and least "bro brah/cool guy" I've ever heard Andy Irons sound in an interview. Normally I cringe and I'm forced to turn away about about the second paragraph, but I made it all the way through this one. Did some PR guy edit that for him? If you're burned out, fine. Anyway can burn out on anything. At least he didn't say (in this interview, anyway) how stressful the tour is and how draining the roughly 100 days a year (MAX) they have to put into the tour. NO JOB that you get 250 days off a year can be stressful. I still wish some journalist would man up and ask him the very simple and straightforward question: Do you have a drug problem?


Fri Jan30, 2009, 9:57 PM

karma sucks !!!


Sun Feb 1, 2009, 1:22 AM

Andy: I wish you a blessed year off and totally respect what you are doing. Find peace within yourself and give yourself space to to feel and do whatever moves you. I wish you all the best whether we see you on tour again or not.


Mon Feb 2, 2009, 8:04 PM

say goodbye to AI...this is the last time he'll be relevant.


Mon Feb 2, 2009, 10:28 PM

ya AI, relax, have fun, surf when you want where you want and with who you want. enjoy your wife, life gonna be fun now, that tour like you said, is a circus, cant blame you to take time off and if you no come back, I cant blame you, 3X world champ, NUF SAID!!!! you a good man...reardon


Mon Feb 2, 2009, 11:52 PM

youre the man Andy, hopefully youre break will let you get refocused and make youre surfing better than ever, and for all the dicks on the comments piss off the only reason youre bitching about somebody elses life is because you didnt get to live it the irons have been helping Kauai and the next generation of groms alot so there not just spoiled pros either, they give back alot more than what is put in your next surf issue article


Tue Feb 3, 2009, 5:20 PM

Andy, Whatever you do is fine with me and I wish only the best of luck. I think the media builds and destroys people. Everybody burns out at one point. At one point I thought you were kind of rude and stuck up but a couple years back I was in Hawaii to watch the triple crown and you came out of the water and ran to your car. It was obvious you didn't want to chat but a few kids ran up to you anyway as you were putting your stuff in the car. You were so kind and awesome to all the kids(including my own)that I started to pay closer attention to your heats. I noticed that you care more than you show. Caring is not a weakness like most people think. You will be OK brother. Take your time, don't hurry back and do whatever makes you smile. Good luck and thanks for the great surfing!


Tue Feb 3, 2009, 10:34 PM

Andy... you rule all the best bro!!!! From Iceland


Wed Feb 4, 2009, 1:18 PM

must be nice to blow off work for a year andy. wish i could have blown one of the 3 tours off i had in iraq cuz i was a lil stressd out form watching ppl get killed. wats wrong cannot handle 100 days of work you lil spoiled brat? to surf!!! i will not support the brands that enable u and ur spoiled bro to do wat ever u want. Jeffries bay was too cold? man up. id give anything to surf that place at just waist high dont u get the top of the line wetties? grow up! life isnt about handouts. u want stressful? try spending 3 years ina combat zone, should ship ur ass out with the marines to show u what life is really like.....but wait u dont care right?


Thu Feb 5, 2009, 7:49 AM

Andale CHIMARRACO, andale!!!! quel año que viene arrasas!!! animo andy!!! El Chimarraco.


Sun Feb15, 2009, 4:45 PM

haha andy irons got fat


Wed Feb18, 2009, 12:20 AM

Anybody who has the courage to compete against Slater and has been the only one to successfully receive the world title 3 times has proved himself to be brave and extremely talented. Pressure from competitions get old but what you have fought for, you have acheived. I hope you don't drop off the tours to come. You have game, you don't need to hear that from the press or fans. -annonymous Carribean surfer


Thu Feb26, 2009, 2:45 PM

When you want something bad enough; you simply go and grab it... Do you really want to win? if yes, it should not be a problem (might not be easy, but should not be a problem) Learn from your mistakes and use them to win... This is my only advice to you. & don't fu&^in worry about what ppl have to say... WHO CARES!!!

spenz from Ventura, CA
Sun Mar22, 2009, 4:20 PM

Never judge a man until you walk in his shoes. Give this guy the benefit of the doubt. He's only human, even though he surfs like a God. Peace brother, it's all in your head.

Ludo from France
Thu Mar26, 2009, 5:10 PM

Good year Andy, you made probably a good decision !! I hope I'll see you, very strong, next year in France. See you soon carpe diem ! Ludo to France

donovan
Mon Feb15, 2010, 11:46 PM

take it easy andy. you pushed yourself so far you don't have the passion you used to have for surfing anymore. dont listen to the people that dumb you down, be strong and stick with it. dont lose the soul for surfing. Although gotta tell ya, fiji is amazing!! i have family there and we all love you!! keep your head high and be the solid surfer that you are. you are putting stupid shit in your head put it behind you and move forward. life is about moving taking the next step not living on the last. take it slow and dont push yourself to where you feel like a downer. stay strong andy! all of your fans support you.

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