PANAMANIAN PARADISE BOCAS DEL TORO IN DANGER
World-Class Caribbean Break Threatened By Pollution
With the onset of winter, many American surfers are searching for a place to score warm, uncrowded waves for a brief respite from the cold-water beatings. One mainstay travel option for mainlanders is the Caribbean due to its proximity, warmth, and consistent surf come wintertime. In recent years, Bocas del Toro, a Caribbean island off Panama, has received considerable media coverage for its world-class waves, while the area’s surf-tourism continues to flourish.
Unfortunately, this attention has lead to rapid, unregulated development, posing a severe threat to the island’s waves and water quality. Bluff beach, made famous by the Hobgoods and the Drive-Thru crew, is having its sand excavated for development projects. One scientist from the University of Miami recently visited the island and reported seeing eight trucks making trips to Bluff in order to excavate sand for city development projects. This process leads to severe erosion and threatens to adversely affect the wave-quality of the island’s best beachbreak. After selling the sand in the city, the trucks returned with garbage to leave behind at the town dump.
Earlier this month the island’s newspaper, “The Bocas Breeze”, reported that surfers have been getting sick from entering the water at two of the islands best waves: Paunch and the aptly named Dumpers — located directly in front of the town dump. The limited options for convenient waste-disposal on the tiny island has lead to unregulated garbage disposal along the shoreline. The piles of burning trash have expanded, forming a small creek of black ooze that flows into the ocean, contaminating the water. Surfers who entered the water reported red and irritated skin, blurry vision, sickness, and vomiting.
Call me old-fashioned, but when I embark on a surf trip the only things I want to see barfing are the barrels. Presently, many visiting and local surfers no longer surf two of the islands best breaks, leaving perfect, polluted waves unridden due to the risk of severe ailment. The local contingent of surfers organized a protest to voice their concerns, but government officials have remained unresponsive.
Scott Balogh, operator of Bocas’ premiere surf resort, Red Frog Bungalows, explained that the islands surf-tourism finds itself in a bind. “If we put our garbage at the dump then we’ll be surfing in it,” says Balogh. “But if we choose not to, then what can we do with it? I don’t see the situation changing.”
Despite the presence of surf-tourism on the island and its contribution to the waste problem, the group has made little effort to put forth alternative waste disposal solutions or aid in the clean-up. A shameful reality when taking into consideration that this contingent stands to profit most from a pristine coast, but is still reluctant to hold itself accountable for contributing to the coast’s destruction.
Unfortunately, solutions to remedy the environmental issues in Bocas del Toro are costly, leaving even those financially invested in the island reluctant to take action. The story threatens an all-too-familiar ending. World-class surf break destroyed by man’s negligence. Let’s hope action is taken before it’s too late.
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READER COMMENTS
Wed Feb11, 2009, 10:36 PM
One sad thing I experienced at Bocas was the number of kids in the area - typically poor - that had Downe Syndrome. A doctor-surfer friend mentioned that this was because of the pollution in the groundwater being consumed by moms. So sad.
Thu Feb12, 2009, 11:32 AM
I have traveled the world and the only placed I have ever been robbed was in Bocas. Out surfing at Paunch by myself all day. My girlfriend alone on the beach. (Great 5 ft surf btw). The moment we took our eyes off our stuff someone stole it (new fancy camara, etc). We were on what we thought a deserted beach. It turns out they hid all day and spied on us until that precise moment. Was kinda freeky knowing that we were being spied on (I wont tell you what else we did on that beach alone) and luckily a few minutes later the ponga boat that dropped us off came to pick us up. Moral of the story, Bocas is poor and run down. Sure there are nice "resorts" but the town isn't so nice. Looks like a favela from Rio but in the middle of nowhere, with people having nothing to do. I guess it's ultimately the fault of the United Fruit Company and those guys who pulled out leaving everyone with nothing to do. Now there's toursim, but let's hope that it provides opportunities to the people
Fri Feb13, 2009, 11:21 AM
Im a panamaanian and really enjoy visiting Bocas as often as I can. The beaches are/were beautiful, and the people are lovely. Island times really means island times in Bocas. Sadly, we panamanians, and latinoamericans in general, are third world, and those who think we are not, then just look at our issues. Garbage dispossal, governmental neglicence and indifference. I will be going to Bocas next week for Carnival (another of LatinAmerica´ws great events) and hopefully will not come back tear eyed with the things I will see. "Red Frog Development" a resort with government and environmental approval was eventually shut down during the construction process for the hazards it came with. I need to get in touch with the Intl. Org which had not only the balls, but also the committment to fight and stop this destruction. Most times its not the locals fault, for these situations, they suffer ignorance and lack of education. It´s the fault of people like me, schooled, educated and not doing shit about
Fri Feb13, 2009, 8:13 PM
I was in Bocas almost exactly a year ago from todays date. Bocas was a really fun trip!! waves were good every day with a variaty of spots, cool locals but really bad food. My heart goes out to the locals at Bocus, its sad to see a quality spot perish do to bullshit resorts, and hotels. Hopfully onr day these mony hungry devolpers will reap what they sow!! VIVA LA BLUFF!!
Sun Feb15, 2009, 12:51 PM
I have a home in Bocas and like so many things you read - the truth lies in the middle. The dump is in the process of being moved and given the surf conidtions, the water quality will improve quickly. The sand removal is under close watch, but more importantly, there is now company that offers sand that comes from rivers, not our beaches, and adds needed jobs. Builders now know that the beach sand has salt in it (go figure!) and therefore unsuitable for large scale building. Petty crime is always an issue in the 3rd world so don't be dumb and leave your camera on the beach (anywhere) - like not leaving your car unlocked in the US, it might be gone when you get home. As far as development goes...I remember Hawaii pre-1970...still paradise? The fact is that Bocas has the goods. Work with a good tour operator (like Balogh) and search. I respect Surfer reporting issues globally as so much good results. Just be advised that much progress has been made to resolve the issues you read here. It is a proc
Mon Mar 2, 2009, 2:37 PM
As a Panamanian i have gotten to see Bocas del Toro develop since 1980's as a matter of fact one of my uncles owned 2 hotels in the main street of bocas. Back to the point. The Republic of Panama makes more money than people are aware. Income starts at an estimate of $250,000 that ships pay every time they transit the Panama Canal, billions of dollars are earned in the second largest bankign center of the world after Switzerland, the second largest trade zone of the world after Honk Kong, a tourism increase rate of 13% a year, money laundering, drug traffic, real estate development and I could keep going. The fact is that Panama only has 3 million people! so guess what, we could be better than the famous Switzerland! I hear that Bocas del Toro establishments do not pay any type of Taxes, yes, Panama's is famous for not having much taxes. However, there are other taxes that needs to be paid such as 10% tourism taxes. Is this problem corruption from the Gov or lack of tax payments? I guess is both!!!
Mon Mar 2, 2009, 10:57 PM
I was in Panama back in 2000 on both the Pacific and the Caribbean coasts ans was amazed at the beauty and diversity of the country. I satyed in Bocas for a week and if was really just starting to get exposed for it's surf. It was a cool vibe but even then the crack and ecstasy was spilling over from CR with my fellow gringos. Mostly not surfers just wannbe hippies on the gringo trail. Even then Dumpers was known for the pollution as I was told while in the line-up there. I heard Bastimentos got turned into a resort as well.
Tue Mar 3, 2009, 2:51 PM
I am panamenian, i think a country have to growth in every field at the same time this is call progress. Education, health, security, transport. Then we can think in tourism, is like inviting someone to our home and don't have anything to offer. It's a shame how our gov. in this 4 years are destroying our peacefull country. Inviting the world to visit us and have a corrupted police, a terrible massive transport system, a stupid education level, the worst health program. The joke is that they took our money in all these taxes and do anything. I hope the new gov. do something about this. Because someday we will not be able to use our resources like rivers and beaches by two reasons: they are polluted or they are sold.
Tue Mar31, 2009, 4:40 PM
I was in Bocas about 2 weeks ago and it is beautiful. My experience did not mirror that of the poster on Feb 12, and my view of Bocas Town is not as harsh, it's certainly no favela. Stayed at a eco-lodge overlooking Playa Bluffs (sick break), luckily no sand stealing going on at the time, but the area does seem to be going through some growing pains - not noticeably, just from what residents told me. Drove by the dump in question a number of times and it's a disgrace, not to mention illegal. The municipality is dumping on private land, leaving heaps of garbage on the road outside the dump area, and burning the trash. They need to do something about this soon, especially since the area seems primed to receive more tourists.
Thu Sep24, 2009, 11:12 PM
I got robbed by 2 guys with a mechetie on bastimos. The place is beautyful but poisened with crime. Step outside bocas town alown with a camera and you could get robbed. It doesent happen sometimes, it happens allot. I was there for 10 days and after i got robbed the merchants started telling me all kind of stories about people getting robbed. They just dont talk about it with tourest because its bad for business. So if you go to a beach alone and go into the water your stuff may not be there when you get back.......
Sat Oct17, 2009, 3:26 PM
we are happy to report that the dump has been cleaned up!!! Our new mayor, Doctor Joe Anderson is doing GREAT work here in very short period of time. See the last two issues of the Bocas Breeze (www.thebocasbreeze.com) to get updated on the situation in Bocas. www.thebocasbreeze.com/.../october-octubre-2009-volu.shtml www.thebocasbreeze.com/.../september-septiembre-2009.shtml You can also see a video of part of the clean up here: http://www.surfeapanama.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=160:los-limpia-bocas&catid=41:principales&Itemid=136 and a story (in spanish) here: http://www.dealante.com/nodo.php?nodoid=19846 and another http://www.surfeapanama.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=143:limpieza-al-dumper-de-bocas-del-toro&catid=41:principales&Itemid=136 As an aside, Bastimentos has long had a reputation for thievery- few people working vs too many smoking pot and drinking all day... bad economics. Although probably not truly dangerous, you need to watch your stuff.