Malaria, Mud, Jungles

On days eight and nine, we surfed Green Bush, Rags Right, Play grounds as well as to places called Pit Stops and E bay: a perfect left with an insane back drop. Pit Stops was an inside right that broke off the reef to the inside. Both great waves. Day 10 was the last day of surfing and we dropped anchor at Pit Stops and E bay for the entire day. We reached Padang at 6 A.M. the next morning. After a 16 hour layover and sleepover in Singapore, and then an 18 hour flight, we landed at LAX.

On the drive home through the gruesome traffic and smog and confusion that is so typical of the 405, I had plenty of time to reflect back on the trip to Indonesia. Yeah, I was happy to be home and around the madness wečre all used to, but by that same token, living in a concrete jungle really makes you appreciate a place like Indonesia. So much beauty and peace and breathtaking surf, it's kind of a slap in the face that wakes you up and makes you realize how amazing certain places on this planet can be. I felt fortunate to be able to travel as far as I did and surf some of the best waves nature can conjure up and swim in warm, crystal clear water. I dončt know if I'd ever want to live there, but I'm happy to know such a place exists. Kind of like my own inner peace, you know? Wow, Another epiphany.