SURFERMAG.COM ONLINE EXCLUSIVE


The Great Divide

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My favorite martian: Geffen and Jacko.
My favorite martian: Geffen and Jacko.

There are few topics that will divide a roomful of surfers more than access to The Ranch.

What everyone calls The Ranch is actually two ranches. The Hollister Ranch is a 14,500-acre operating cattle ranch subdivided into 100-acre plots and overseen by a very strict set of CC&Rs. The Hollister Ranch runs from Gaviota State Park and for 8.5 miles of pristine coast up to the border of the Bixby Ranch, which is a private cattle ranch that covers the rest of the south-facing west tip of Point Conception. That 13 miles is a miracle of beautiful points and reefs, facing south and perfectly situated to convert any energy in the Pacific into rideable waves, and to turn the persistent northwest winds into offshores.

There are surfers who see The Ranch from the wrong side of the fence, as a bourgeois preserve where the privileged and the wealthy have private access to some of California’s best surf-spots—to the exclusion of the majority of the public.

California is a “wetsand” state, which means that everything below the mean high tide line is public property. Public access to the high tide line is mandatory all along the California coast, at everything that is not a military base—except for the Hollister Ranch. The road in is private, and so outsiders must walk perilous miles at low tide from either the Gaviota or the Jalama ends, or boat in.

Surfers who are not owners or friends of owners can get access to the points and reefs along the westernmost tip of Point Conception, either legally by boating in or illegally by walking in. The Ranch owners do not encourage visits by outsiders, and preventive measures have ranged from vandalizing the boat hoist at Gaviota, to intimidation in the water. There are stories of Ranch guards shooting lost boards, and burying illegal cars.

Some surfers who don’t own property believe that The Ranch should remain as it is—that public access would destroy a well-preserved stretch of California coast. But other surfers believe The Ranch should be open to one and all.

On May 30, 2005, Topanga resident Steve Hoye picked up a set of keys from billionaire record executive David Geffen which symbolized the end of a three-year battle for access to Carbon Beach in Malibu. For 22 years, Geffen had promised to honor an easement across his property in exchange for building an elaborate, Cape Cod-style house. But Geffen was stubborn as an abalone in actually opening that passageway, and Hoye founded “Access for All” to fight that and other battles for public access in California. Hoye won access to Carbon Beach and Geffen had to pay $300,000 in court costs in a real victory for public vs. private.

There are more access battles to be fought, and the most explosive is public access to the historically off-limits Hollister Ranch in Santa Barbara County.

SURFERMAG.COM: The Hollister Ranch is 8.5 miles and it’s 8.5 miles from the Malibu Pier to Point Dume. I see a lot of parallels between the Rindges’ battles in Malibu and the Hollisters, but the Rindges lost their battles.
STEVE HOYE: Well The Hollisters lost, too. There is a balance that I don’t think they have achieved. One of the things that distressed me about Hollister, is that a lot of the folks up there worked against the designation of the Gaviota Coast as a National Seashore. I believe the Hollister Ranch Owners’ Association had a war chest of about $300,000 to work against that designation and to defend their property values.

SURFERMAG.COM: The Gaviota Coast is beautiful. It’s amazing how untouched it is, like the coast between Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay.
STEVE HOYE: The Gaviota Coast is going to be subject to some of the worst development pressure in the state of California, which is the worst in the nation at this moment. What also bothers me about the Hollister Ranch is they claim the environmental high ground, but they still drive down the beach.

SURFERMAG.COM: They drive on the beach there, that is true.
STEVE HOYE: Well that’s wrong. There’s nothing worse than having a dog or a car on the beach. You’ll never find a seal hauling out on a beach where there’s a dog. People claiming the environmental high ground shouldn’t drive on the beach.

SURFERMAG.COM: You won a three-year battle against a very wealthy man to open up access to Carbon Beach. What do you have proposed for the Hollister Ranch?
STEVE HOYE: We’re talking about what I call “limited public access.” I went to the Surfrider Santa Barbara Chapter about three years ago and pitched them a plan that would allow 50 people a day into the Hollister Ranch. There would be busses with surfboards on the top. People would pay a fee of maybe about five bucks to the State Parks Service or to Access for All, and there would be Rangers educating the people in how to respect the tidepools, protect endangered species and take care of The Ranch. This is not an expensive program and there’s a million dollars in the County of Santa Barbara specifically allocated from oil leases to fund a coastal access to Hollister Ranch.

SURFERMAG.COM: How would the 50 qualify?
STEVE HOYE: First come, first served.

SURFERMAG.COM: How did that go over?
STEVE HOYE: Surfrider Santa Barbara was reluctant to even think about the idea because they didn’t want the place trashed, but they certainly wanted to get in there. But by the end of the evening they supported me, in a guarded fashion, and wrote me a letter to that effect. Now we haven’t moved forward because the Hollister Ranch is a legal minefield. There is one offer to dedicate—the YMCA easement—which is smack dab in the middle and right off the main public road.

SURFERMAG.COM: Excuse me while I Google “easement”: “An easement is the right of use over the real property of another.”
STEVE HOYE: The easement on the Hollister Ranch was created by the YMCA who wanted to build a summer camp there. This is before the Hollister Ranch Owners’ Association got the whole enchilada. And in those days they actually got a coastal development permit to do this and they did offer to dedicate an access easement to the YMCA.

SURFERMAG.COM: How long ago was this?
STEVE HOYE: This was the ’70s, and it was on the eastern side of Hollister. But the big problem is not the opening of the easement but the private road issues. In the state of California it’s not at all clear whether you are entitled to have access to an easement from a private road. The courts really haven’t ruled on the easement issue and it’s something that will be in our interest to pursue.

SURFERMAG.COM: It’s easy to argue that it’s best to leave well enough alone at the Hollister Ranch.
STEVE HOYE: We’re all Sierra Club activists. We’re all environmentalists and we basically do not believe in opening floodgates and letting people in to trash places. I just don’t believe the public is the problem in these situations, with one exception, and that exception is tide pools. Surfrider Foundation is working on a great new campaign about public education for tide pools because the public has a tendency to get in there and disturb everything, dig them all up, kill the life. By allowing them to go to what is essentially their property—the state tidelands, their land—we can build a sense of ownership in these places, which is a real key to saving the environment.

SURFERMAG.COM: Taking down a billionaire music mogul is an accomplishment, but now you’re going up against the HROA. The place is crawling with lawyers. With guns!
STEVE HOYE: Well we’re not moving on the Hollister Ranch yet. We’re looking at the documents and we’re trying to size up exactly what the problem is going to be and it’s probably going to be formidable. I’d sure like to talk to the Hollister Ranch Owners’ Association about what they would like to consider allowing because I mean, it is going to happen eventually.

SURFERMAG.COM: You think public access to the Hollister Ranch is inevitable?
STEVE HOYE: What’s going to happen is going to happen. It’s not in my hands or your hands. It’s just a question of getting a handle on it and making sure it is done to the best possible level that it can be. No one wants to throw open the gates to the Hollister Ranch. If we have an environmentally sound program allowing 50 people to go onto The Ranch a day with no incidents—Ranger-led, from the parking lot at Gaviota State Park—nobody is going to complain about Hollister Ranch ever again if we can get that sort of access.

READER COMMENTS

Hollister Ranch Local
Mon Apr28, 2008, 10:41 PM

Obviously you know nothing about the ranch by the words you speak!! I grew up in the Santa Ynez valley and have been an owner since 1980 & 50 people that were from the outside would completely ruin it! We bought land there not only to surf but most importantly we bought land there because it was private with NO CARS etc.! If you are trying to ruin the surf at the ranch well then it would do it with 5 extra surfers a day.... if you are from the outside you can go jump on your boat and if you can surf then you will have no problem getting some waves stevey boy! Can you even surf? This would also ruin it for all the long time boaters that try to get away from it all.... If you really want to surf out there stevey go to your bank and get a few million dollars by a parcel.... Why you are at it why don't you go to all the private golf courses in santa barbara and ask each one that you want to change there rules to 50 new vistors a day at there clubs! Do you think this would go over with them! Same principal he

some guy
Wed May 7, 2008, 12:05 PM

Steve, the same idea you have would be it you bought a 2 million dollar house with a nice pool in the back yard. Would you or your family want 50 howle riversiders a day come and swim in your pool? I dont think so. You don't understand how special the ranch is to its owners. Besides its fickle but good surf, the beauty and solitude is the main reason to live there. And 50 surfers a day? Its not like the ranch has four jbay's that can handle a lot of surfers. Even if you unload a bus of ten surfers who paid to get in through your little idea wouldn't get any waves because the ranch locals would scare em out of the water or just snake them on ever wave.

mikehock
Wed May28, 2008, 1:33 PM

Steve Hoyes a douche bag, You want to destroy one of the most pristine peace of the California coast to fill your ego.Your not a true surfer. I ones in a blue moon get to surf up there and I'd rather never again get to surf up there and know that it stays private than have it be public and surf with 50 nuckel heads "Steve Hoyes" that don't even have a clue how special the Ranch is. Steve you probably don't even surf, I don't complain because I can't get on military bases when there is a good swell but if you get the opportunity to get out there it is a blessing because it its not open to the public, thats what makes spots like these so special. Steve Hoye you're a kook so leave the Ranch alone. Thanks, Mike Hock

Nor Cal Surfer
Sun Jun 1, 2008, 11:22 AM

I have surfed the Ranch several times; each one was a great adventure. The Ranch will be destroyed if access is granted to more than the highly motivate. All my trips were walking in from Gaviota and the worst thing that happened was someone from the cliffs shouted for me to go home. Although it really hurt me mentally I was over it after my first barrel. If you understand how to follow wind and swell direction, and you are highly motivated you too can surf UNCROWDED world class surf. That doesn't happen very often anymore in the state of California.

Boa Ter
Wed Jun 4, 2008, 6:19 PM

Gonna git ya with my prop--peese off mate!

Georgia Tanner
Fri Jul 4, 2008, 2:26 PM

As an owner and resident of Parcel 2 on the Hollister Ranch during the 1970s and a California native, I do NOT support any form of public access to the Ranch. Its ecology is too fragile, and fire hazard is much too high. I've lived in Baja California since then and have seen many places trashed. I say this in memory of my former neighbor Jane Hollister Wheelwright: boat in, walk in, but leave this beautiful place alone. California needs wildness.

Ex Special Forces, Constitutional Lawyer, True Conservative, CA concealed wepons permit holder
Sun Jul 6, 2008, 10:58 PM

Well gentlemen, let me put all of this to rest. I am currently 80% complete with an elite training program that has taken 63 individuals with low to moderate survival and endurance skills and transformed them into hardened, rigid survivalists. Commencing in the summer of 2009 we will be entering the public accessible coast of the HR (all 8.3 mi.) and setting up PERMANENT camps that will include PERMANENT shelter, desalinization equip, and produce harvesting stations. Our camps will be self patrolled around the clock and absolutely no persuasion or threats from HR parcel owners will be tolerated. Our goal is to even out the leverage pertaining to coastal access that is currently controlled by HR parcel owners. Any threat from HR parcel owners will be considered a threat to the life, safety and health of the camp "teams" and will be dealt with in such a manor as lawfully prescribed by constitutional and civil laws pertaining to self defense. WE ARE STRONG, WE ARE ARMED, AND WE WILL NOT STAND DOWN.

Ex Special Forces, Constitutional Lawyer, True Conservative, CA concealed wepons permit holder
Sun Jul 6, 2008, 10:59 PM

Well gentlemen, let me put all of this to rest. I am currently 80% complete with an elite training program that has taken 63 individuals with low to moderate survival and endurance skills and transformed them into hardened, rigid survivalists. Commencing in the summer of 2009 we will be entering the public accessible coast of the HR (all 8.3 mi.) and setting up PERMANENT camps that will include PERMANENT shelter, desalinization equip, and produce harvesting stations. Our camps will be self patrolled around the clock and absolutely no persuasion or threats from HR parcel owners will be tolerated. Our goal is to even out the leverage pertaining to coastal access that is currently controlled by HR parcel owners. Any threat from HR parcel owners will be considered a threat to the life, safety and health of the camp "teams" and will be dealt with in such a manor as lawfully prescribed by constitutional and civil laws pertaining to self defense. WE ARE STRONG, WE ARE ARMED, AND WE WILL NOT STAND DOWN.

billy
Fri Jul25, 2008, 1:53 PM

I want to see blood.

derf
Sun Oct19, 2008, 6:12 PM

Why should we be under the impression that the public have direct access to every surf destination in California? Keep in mind access to some spots may be hindered by federal, state, local or private prohobitions of passage. Other limitations of public access may consist of natural barriers such as hydrograpy or topography. Regardless, true surfers, seeking more adventursome and rewarding alternatives to their daily parking lot locales, will turn to their creativity and fortitude in order to get waves in places where ease of public access is limited. Boats, bikes, ropes, kyaks, stamina, desire, intellect, and common sense are often every bit as good as a deep pocket book for getting into places like the Hollister Ranch. To those who really want it, there is very little of our California coast the we cannot really get to to surf. Leave the "Ranch" alone. We may never be able to afford a place there, but that should not be an excuse for not figuring out how to get up there to enjoy pristin

HR resident
Sun Oct19, 2008, 10:09 PM

Being an owner at the HR for over 30 years my response to the ex special forces lawyer is this. Most of the time the mean high tide mark is submerged and hard to traverse and not suited for your PERMANENT shelters and PERMANENT camp sites that you want to build on Ca. state beach lands and privately owned properties. Not to mention that you most likely would be arrested by the Santa Barbara county sheriffs dept and the southern pacific railroad police for trespassing and homesteading on private property. Also the fickle surf that tends to be over rated 60% of the time might make you re think your dumb idea of wanting to homestead on the Hollister Ranch. Not to mention if your armed with firearms or any other weapons and pose a threat to private citizens on their private property you and your other 63 hardened survivalists will end up doing some hard time in Lompoc prison for your summer of love 2009 and beyond. So do us all a favor and stay home!

Ray Ellis
Tue Oct28, 2008, 12:16 AM

I just got back from a boat trip to the ranch. I took my own 21 foot power boat up from San Diego. Its too heavy for the Hoist so I put in at Santa Barbara, Me and my Buddy got Government point alone for 3 hours. We got shut out by the fog on sat and sun. I drove 250 miles and then boated for 37 miles to get 2-4 ft gov's with no one out. If you put out enough effort you can surf the ranch. Leave it alone! I can see 50 idiots who left Zuma and plan to catch some air at perkos. Just the though makes me want to puke

BeanerBoy
Fri Nov 7, 2008, 6:20 PM

Its all going to be open to the masses soon - u idiots that live on the ranch will soon have chinese tour buses flocking in like flies on $hit and "your private" breaks will soon look like malibu - at least i hope it does. Its complete crap that the area is "too fragile" - what about the rest of Kalifornia? If you wanna be alone move to the desert or mountains, but the beaches are open to the masses. Watch me burn all of you kook home owners.

Sean Davis
Sun Dec21, 2008, 10:57 PM

First, I am retired from surfing and I have no dog in the fight. However, I believe in both sides keeping their ends of a deal. If the HR developers had to offer an easement to get permits to subdivide the land then they knew they were giving away exclusive rights to access across the property. The waves and beach below high tides are public property, a well established principal in California Property Law. The only issue I see is how much burden on the property ownners was intended at the time of the grant of easement. I doubt it was 50 yahoos a day. That would be ridiculous. I think access should be granted by permit in advance and numbers limited to 5 or 10 a day. Everything should be pack in pack out. No facilities just like the preserve at Anacapa Island. Each side should give a little on this. With the easement in existance before they bought no HR owner has a reasonable expectation of total exclusion of others from the land. Likewise the ranch should not be opened up like a carnival.


Tue Dec30, 2008, 1:00 PM

LEAVE THE RANCH THE WAY IT IS!!!! Those that work hard enough can get there if they want.. A little dedication is what you need, not a 5$ bus pass in...


Mon Feb 9, 2009, 12:27 AM

So I guess surfing is like golf now? Open the ranch there are alot of kids who deserve to surf there but dont have $500,000 or a boat charge a day fee get over it its crowded anyway.How are our grom suppose to keep up with the rest of the world?


Tue Feb10, 2009, 1:59 PM

HEY Beaner Boy, sounds like you have lots of LOVE stored up in your little pin head for us property owners. If you want to surf here then walk the mean high tide area like everyone else where its legal or buy a boat. If you go wandering around above the high tide line then your trespassing on private property and will be subject to arrest by the Santa Barbara county sheriff department. If you don`t think so give it a try. Stay in the water and off our private property, and leave your trash in your own back yard not ours! And to the surfing golfer above! Why should we open up our private roads that are on private property and let you and your grom kids can come in and trash the place and then go home. FORGET IT.. Enough said already. There is more to the ranch than surf. I don`t have free rights to go and trespass in your home or back yard, so stay out of mine. Go trespassing here and GO TO JAIL.. HR Resident


Sun Feb15, 2009, 11:41 AM

I love "Hollister Ranch Local" post. Are you really a local? You consider your self a local just because you rich pukes purchase land there. Funny! What about people like me who are native santa ynez "American" indian? You would think i could just walk on but i cant. Sucks to be in the lower class, where i cant enjoy free nature.


Thu Feb19, 2009, 12:58 PM

To the "American Indian" above. I have been an owner at the ranch since 1974 probably before you were born. So I guess you could say that I am a local at this point in time. The real locals were the Chumash Indians way before both of our times. The point I am trying to make isn`t about the surf here or surfers. Its about property rights. You like anyone else can walk the mean high tide line or boat in. Thats been done for years around here. Just don`t trespass on private property here. It would be the same as me trying to walk in and camp on an Indian reservation without permission. How fast would I be kicked off or arrested? So don`t use the race card of being an Indian. You have rights like all of us Americans so use them. Just don`t trespass on private property here or go to jail like anybody that walked into your own home or backyard. HR Resident


Mon Feb23, 2009, 5:58 PM

Well here's an idea, have some sorta enviro group buy up a string of properties at 100% ea. then thru a website offer 1st come 1st served access to HR paying something like they do for 17 mi. drive in Carmel. hmm wheres Bill Gates when ya need him. Then do the same for Bixby/Edison next door. so that then one could do a coastal access tour at least to Jalama Beach Rd. HR ranch owner's can't bitch because a legal entity bought enuf access for it. Or can they not allow such sales like a NYC coop board?


Sat Mar 7, 2009, 3:55 AM

Having started surfing in the late 50's long after Rennie and the rest of the group I still had the chance to enjoy California in a somewhat pristine state. The first surf craze in the early 60's changed that all. Gone were the days of solitude. Shit happens, times change, everybody is concerned only with themseleves and there own gratification. I had the pleasure of spending the day with my childhood hero Mickey Dora playing (yes) golf, to listen to him describe picking lobster and abalone off the rocks at Malibu or spending a month on the beach at trestles in the summer during the 40's made me realize why he bailed and said F off to the whole scene .He watched his beloved California raped and pillaged by a bunch of self centered rock throwing geeks. You can't take my memories away but for Gods sake start respecting your fellow man and the earth and do something for someone else.I don't have the answer to the ranch problem I've surfed it many times by boat or with friends who had prop


Tue Mar10, 2009, 12:54 PM

To the person who would like some type of environmental group to buy up a string of ranch properties at 100% of market price, and then put up a website for first come first serve access is out of the question. What owners here would even consider selling for that. It would cost billions! Get a clue friend. The edison company sold years ago and the hollister ranch bought all of their easements. So no access there. There is no easy and comfortable way for access to the ranch. You either walk the mean high tide line which is mostly underwater due to the hazardous cliffs and RISK being ARRESTED for trespassing by railroad police of the county sheriff`s dept. OR buy a good boat. THIS IS THE ONLY LEAGAL WAY to have access period. SO GET OVER IT AND STOP CRYING about someone else having private property that you think you should have rights to walk on and visit at your own leisure. Hey how about giving me the key to YOUR backyard so I can come and check out whats going on at your place. GET OVER IT.. HR RESIDENT

surfing for soul. you should try it.
Wed Mar25, 2009, 10:28 PM

You know i have read every statement on this page. I grew up in the 70's surfing Malibu with my dad and uncle. I have never surfed the ranch and not quit sure i want to.I mean i would love to but is it really worth it. So what you own property there, good for you, your very special. But for the blue collar working man like myself that feat of buying property at HR is out of the question. California surf culture is not like it used to be. Localizm is a joke, the waves do not belong to anyone they are for everyone. People need to dig deep and find out why they are really in the water. So you homeowners don't like trespassers me neither, but why you have be so anal about surfing there is beyond me. you own a home great i have 2 so fuck yourself

Larry
Sun Apr 5, 2009, 1:21 PM

Just surfed Razors and had a blast. What's all the hubbaballoo about private this and private that? Nothing ruined my surf trip to the ranch...just remember: Leave no trace and don't be a turd. Respect goes a long way in this world; wherever you go.

mugz
Mon May25, 2009, 5:09 AM

We bought a 30' fishing boat and will be dropping groups of 5 surfers w/ inflatables at break spots... They will have video to record any confrontation. We have established a web site to offer rides (free) and will post videos of the surf. We envision hundreds of surfers and tourists being transported in everyday. I think the use of all beaches should be available to walkins ( not many would hike in maybe 20/50). Since we have gotten no response and will not be allowed use, we are planning on trashing the whole ranch. Your jails can hold only so many and you can prosecute fewer. Yes, we the masses have the power. When you are off the ranch you pukes still have to walk amongst us. We should be good to go in October. Look at any sattelite view and notice the ugly scars on the land that are the energy burning mass polluting abominations you call Homes. A lot of our early response has been from mexicans and they are not surfers. They say they will look for work and live in the bushes. They must be jok

Red
Sat May30, 2009, 12:29 PM

Please try and get along in this world..we only have one chance in this life..look deep within see and feel what makes us happy....we just have to co exist...We can do this..you get what you give.ok trust this..treat others as you want to be treated. with respect...I am from Aussie and l love surfing the town l come from has 900 people total,its on the coast..sometimes we dont get along..but we can all agree to disagree...but we all have to live in this town....[on this earth]..so be kind to each other.ok

Boater for continued exclusivity.
Tue Jun23, 2009, 9:18 PM

First off, the place is not perfect waves all the time with nobody out. There are already a lot of people surfing out there, week days included. It is around the corner from point conception so it misses a ton of energy. There are some good breaks, but they don't have a world class break like Rincon stashed away up there. I boat in, which is a lot of work, but I get to take home fish for dinner. The owners have to pay $20 a head to bring in guests and there is talk about not letting in guests at all...I hope they do it. Make it more exclusive, I'll still be on it. I hope Gaviota stays a crappy boatlaunch area too, nobody will just back in their 30' cruiser. You have to work for it, which keeps the lazy dudes out. I wish there was a lot more coastline just like it.

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