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AT LONG LAST: Big Wave Hellman, Greg Long, Finally Gets His Due

Greg Long's Mavericks win helped put him on the radar for a big deal that finally came fruition.


In our July 2008 issue, I wrote a story about the financial challenges facing modern big wave surfers. [Immense Equality] Greg Long, then unsponsored and paying for trips with his dwindling savings and contest winnings, was the feature’s center piece. But we’re happy to report that those days are behind him. Long, widely regarded as one of the best big wave surfers in the world, just signed a comprehensive deal with Billabong. Here are his thoughts on opening a new chapter in his career. —Alex Wilson

So, after a year and a half of being unsponsored you just signed with Billabong.

Yeah I’m really excited


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How’d that all go down?

Going into this last year I basically told myself, “Obviously you don't have a major sponsor to support you through this. But what would you rather be doing?" It really wasn’t a question.

It went down well. It was one of those things where we were both right on the same page as far as where I’m at in my career and where the company is and the direction we want to go. It happened so fast. It was one of those things that felt right. It’s exactly what I’ve been looking for during the last year and a half. It was one of those meetings where you aren’t trying to force something to happen. When it’s meant to be, it’s meant to be, and I guess now it’s time, so I’m really excited. I’ve always been a huge fan of the Billabong brand’s products and have a great relationship with everybody working within the company. They are, by far, the most dedicated supporter of big wave and adventure surfing, which is what I’ve built my lifestyle around. I think the two go hand and hand.

Last time I talked to you, you were a little worried about your career. You were going to start lifeguarding again.

Yeah, I mean it’s one of those things, obviously, the way I was traveling this last year, one swell to the next, really making that extra effort—it’s not a cheap travel program to be on. Going into this last year I basically told myself, “Obviously you don’t have a major sponsor to support you through this. But what would you rather be doing? Sitting here, with that money in the bank?” It really wasn’t a question. It came down to believing in myself and what I’m out there doing—having faith that everything is going to work out, which it always does, one way or the next.

I mean, I was a little concerned about the financial situation, but you can’t let those kind of things drag you down. I’m not out there surfing for the money or stardom or fame or crap. It’s because I love doing it, and I love traveling and surfing big waves. I made that conscious decision that I’m not going to let anything stand in the way. I always knew something was going to work out sooner or later. It happened to be on the later side of things, but that’s the way it goes.

Now that you’ve got the backing, do you have any big plans as far as the next few seasons coming up?

I’ve found in the past few years I have these places I really love traveling to. I’m off to South Africa tomorrow for two and a half months and the duration of the winter down there, maybe going to West Oz or Indo. Any number of places. There’re definitely a lot of travel plans and projects we’ve got coming up. It’s amazing how far the whole big wave surfing thing’s come the last few years. There’s really no end to where we can go out there. The potential to pursue—there’s always new, undiscovered breaks and old breaks breaking again. There’s never going to be a day that’s over 20 feet that you’re not sitting on the edge of your seat and excited to see it, so, really I’m just excited to be out on the road traveling and working with such a great company and great crew of individuals.

Reader Comments 
Posted Thu Jun12, 2008, 2:06 PM — By Aaron
Hey my names Aaron and I saw greg at the mavs contest in dec 07, (dude rips) and I also agree that he is "long" overdue. He made it look pretty damn easy out there in "hell." Can't wait til 09. Goodluck and congrats Greg.
Posted Thu Jun12, 2008, 5:33 PM — By smelly
why is big wave surfing a career any of us should care about? He can't surf Mavs and lifeguard? Give me a break. I don't care any more about this than I do Gerr's stupid Game. Let them ALL get real jobs.
Posted Thu Jun12, 2008, 6:51 PM — By Rocferd
Smelly, are you telling me that given the opportunity to be paid to surf, you wouldn't take it? I'm totally stoked on the fact that this can be done. Everybody should be so fortunate to be able to persue what they love for a living; there are far too many people unhappy in their jobs/careers. People who do what they love, make the world a better place to live in. Frankly, you sound a tad bitter, homie.
Posted Thu Jun12, 2008, 8:40 PM — By Steve Wimer
Best wishes to the Long family, leaving So Cal for Oregon, and their big wave charger, Greg. You've done pretty well for a State Park charger.
Posted Thu Jun12, 2008, 11:31 PM — By Frank
Interesting that an Australian company was the first to work out Greg was the real deal. Good one Billabong!.
Posted Fri Jun13, 2008, 12:41 AM — By charles webster baer
AH YEAH http://globalinternetgovernment.com LETS GET IT ON
Posted Fri Jun13, 2008, 12:57 AM — By Mark
Greg, That is way cool that you got sponsored by Billbong. I'v actually surfed with you before a long time ago at Todos. You were pretty much a grom and I was looking at you saying this kid rips out in big waves. I have you on a video "in the earlier years" if you want a copy. I can make one for you. I live in Poway. See ya out in the water, Mark
Posted Fri Jun13, 2008, 2:24 AM — By miksurf
greg: congratulations on your contract. it is rare that anyone in any sport gets such unanimous positive support from their peers, but everything written about the you is the same; awesome surfer, great guy. I wish you well, and a full year of massive set waves! Billabong has its act together, that's for sure. Without Billabong, the ASP/WCT would hardly exist—and its support unselfishly benefits all of the other surf companies by showcasing their riders. Good on ya mates!!! BTW: smelly: you are aptly named. I don't get the small minded, cluelessness that lingers in the surf blogs. Look, anyone who is paid to surf for any of the top surf companies, which have up to a $1,000,000,000 in annual sales does in fact have a real job. And as far as Greg Long's position goes, it is a seriously dangerous position at that—far more dangerous than any position I am guessing our friend "smelly" has landed. Unless driving a delivery truck(?) is considered a high risk occupation.
Posted Fri Jun13, 2008, 12:19 PM — By JP
Greg Long is the kind of guy who should get sponsorship instead of all these girly wanking 15 year olds who can't do a cutback.
Posted Fri Jun13, 2008, 3:25 PM — By JT (OC MD.)
Congratulations Greg!!! Watching Greg Long surf big waves is like watching Bruce lee do his 1" punch, it's freaking amazing!!! I live and surf the east coast but some day I dream of the opportunity to surf big waves, that is my dream and goal in life and it is awesome to hear when someone with the same passion and spirit gets a HUGE break!!! MUCH LUV to the Billabong CREW!!! GOD speed Greg, stay safe and good luck. MAHALO, JT USMC IRAQ PS-I know what it is like to have a high risk job, keeps you real! (Unlike "smelly")
Posted Fri Jun13, 2008, 5:06 PM — By Clark Abbey
Congratulations Greg, charging hard, living life on the edge, being cool while doing it but most of all having fun. Your only young once so enjoy it. Keep being yourself and one day when I grow up I hope I can be just like you... Have fun in South Africa, just spoke to Andrew and said he can't wait to surf with you. Aloha, Clark Abbey
Posted Sun Jun15, 2008, 10:26 AM — By Ben Miller
That is great for Greg, congrats. What about Rusty?

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