It’s been five days since I set foot on land. Five days with a solid stomach; no seasickness, no Bali Belly. Now, sitting here at the computer screen my brain feels pinned to the uppermost portion of my skull and my stomach feels like it’s lurching with a ten foot swell. The wood of the Macaroni’s surf camp warps and moves like an Indonesian Alice In Wonderland.
A small price to pay for the uncrowded Macaroni’s that we dined on for breakfast. As our surf president and resident barrel charger puts it, “Barrels for breakfast.” I woke up at 6:15 to boardshorts and boards moving swiftly past my windows. I brushed my curly hair away from my eyes as I watched the first boatload head into the lineup. I pounded a Mandarin juice from a small cardboard carton before throwing on my damp gear and hopping on the skiff. I rationalized that there was no time for food, Macca’s with six guys on it was just too tempting.
The waves were, or I suppose are, about shoulder high and fun. A projector beams the image onto the wall above my head and I watch only a few guys share the side onshore noon-time waves. When I say side onshore I mean the most fun onshore you’ve seen. A little sectiony, but makeable, rippable and still throwing barrels.
I suppose we’ll have some class in a little while but that’s just as fun as the surf. We analyze why we’re here, why we surf and what the meaning of it all is. For a rabid fan of all things surf, it’s an intensive look into the meaning of surfing lives, and for all of us aboard the D’Bora, that’s what life is.
And I can’t wait another minute to get back to it, rocking hard wood floors and all. I suppose when I get back on the boat, I’ll be comfortable once again and even more comfortable when I get back into the lineup. Back into Wonderland.
READER COMMENTS
Thu Nov20, 2008, 10:55 PM
Another horrible defeat to sensible Americans... Our country has been hijacked by the 5% liberal SP environmental extremists in our population, and before you know it your not going to be able to cross the street in fears that we might step on a f'n snail, and union between a man and an animal will be "Marriage"... There is no end to the madness. Whats funny to me is that surfers (in general) are pretty environmentally sensitive until it effects their "Lifestyle"... Seems pretty hypocritical to me. If only I could take modern surfboards back to the golden era of America!
Fri Nov21, 2008, 8:49 AM
maybe someone needs to email Barrack Obama. surely its worth an email.
Fri Nov21, 2008, 10:39 AM
I like the cut of your jib CantHaveItBothWays! Your precise logic stands as a beacon of goodness and right thinking for all to behold. How dare they infringe on our right to entertain ourselves! Sensible Americans like me and CantHaveItBoth ways will lead the other sensible Americans in making sure that nonsense ceases! Down with insensible Americans who are afraid to cross the street!
Fri Nov21, 2008, 11:56 AM
This is F'in ridiculous. there are so many rules and regulations that the government places on citizens, that we are becoming to much like a communist dictatorship. why cant the government just let people live their lives without interference. PWCs dont provide any significant threat to the natural marine environment in the big wave area. its when the government tries to controle the every day lives of the people that rights and freedoms are restricted. we live in AMERICA, not Communist China! Like it was said in the article, the jet skiis make the sport safer, and people will likely fet F'ed up and die without them. Let big wave riders use jet skis!
Sat Nov22, 2008, 1:39 AM
I don't think this ban was entirely based on environmentalism, per se. It was most likely fueled by the ultra-wealthy homeowners, and golfers in the Carmel/Pacific Grove 17 Mile restricted community who didn't want the noise, or crowds. And these people are definitely not what I'd call "Liberals". Got it???? Don't just knee-jerk react. We need environmentalism now, more than ever... And this is about the economics of power and exclusivity. I think it was a wrong judgment. It is like saying you can't climb Mt. Everest because you have to trek past a gated community..........
Sat Nov22, 2008, 5:01 PM
miksurf makes a valid point. Rather than going off on a rant about our path towards communist dictatorship, it makes more sense to ask exactly who is served by the ban? Are there any delicate or endangered species being threatend by the occasional use of jet skis? If not, then the ban serves no purpose. On the other side, I've seen Jaws on days when there were fifty or more PWCs, creating an obvious safety hazzard for anyone in the water. What it comes down to in the end is compromise, which means that neither surfers nor the wealthy property owners (or endangered sea creatures) will get away without having to give something up. Sounds like a metaphor for our futures...
Sat Nov22, 2008, 9:20 PM
Anthropocentric idiot comments. Leave the otters, dolphins, whales at peace. Pay the $10 at a P.B. gate and paddle out.
Sun Nov23, 2008, 12:15 AM
What's ridiculous about the ban is that a traditional boat can still motor through the same zone impacting with more polution from a 2 stroke or deisel engine. This ban is purely an idealogical one. Some people simply don't like tow surfing. There was never any impact study done to make the case for or against the ban. I do understand the safety issue in and around paddle surfers and swimmers. but to say some how PWCs have a negative impact on the habitat of marine life while still allowing every single other kind of water craft into the santuary is stupid.
Sun Nov23, 2008, 8:43 PM
So they banned pwc... Take you PWC and build it onto something that does exactly the same thing - thats not classified as a 'pwc'. Should be pretty simple.
Sun Nov23, 2008, 11:50 PM
Thank God I don't live in the USA. Rules, rules , rules and more rules made by fools! God help you poor people. JC
Tue Nov25, 2008, 8:08 PM
More to the point, this prohibits PWC at the breaks that most of us surf. Prior to the initial prohibition we'd see yahoos from the rivers and lakes of the valley come over here and use their JetSkis to jump waves at the Lane, Cowells and Pleasure Point. I even watched a couple of dufuses launch their PWCs at Sunny Cove on a south swell day and then mix it up with the body surfers and boogie boarders! They were absolutely clueless about waves, water safety or anything else but the power and macho of their machines. If guys with PWCs want to ride big waves, there are plenty of untapped breaks outside the Monterrey Bay Marine Sanctuary. Go there. Enjoy.
Tue Nov25, 2008, 8:15 PM
Wow, you guys must all think very highly of yourselves to assume that the PWC ban is targeted specifically at tow surfers. The Monterey Bay area is a National Marine Sanctuary containing multiple endangered species. The PWC ban is to prevent drunken yahoos from zipping around in jetskis, nailing otters, seals, etc; I've seen the destruction that these clueless people on jetskis can do firsthand (Monterey resident for 22 years). During the summer it used to be downright ridiculous. This ban would be similar to banning 4 wheelers in a national forest where bald eagles lay eggs.The goal of the ban wasn't to put an end to tow surfing, that was just a side effect...but of course all you egotistical ignorant fools think everything is all about you. Besides, I know for a fact that none of you posting here would ever even think about going out at Pescadero Point(Ghost Tree's a dumb name). And if anyone complains about not being able to tow at Moss Landing, then grow some balls and paddle out like the rest
Wed Nov26, 2008, 11:03 AM
Rick, what happens when its too big at moss to paddle and all you guys are burning fires sitting on the beach just watching. Thats when I bring out my ski. Ive never seen drunk people on skis. Maybe we should ban driving cars cause some people drink and drive....punish everyone right!
Thu Nov27, 2008, 12:56 PM
We surfed for a while with out ski's so stop bitching and start paddling.
Thu Nov27, 2008, 8:48 PM
So what you guys cant use a water ski boat or something?
Sat Nov29, 2008, 4:51 AM
I would suggest looking into the Blue Ribbon Coalition they could give some ideas on how to help lift the ban. I am a snowmobile rider and there are all kinds of people trying to close the lands I ride on with no reason.
Sun Nov30, 2008, 12:04 PM
I imagine the commentators that are complaining probably do not even tow-in. Their surfing is probably sub-par.
Mon Dec 1, 2008, 9:39 PM
Hey good point Joe. So lets endanger the lives of those that do. Hey, an otters life is more important than some goofy surfers, right? Wait, what world do we live in. A God damn bizarro world.
Mon Dec15, 2008, 11:04 PM
If you want to play in Mother nature's big waves, then respect what is there. Screw those noisey, Stinky Toys! You all surfed those beautiful giants before they came along!