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PEELING: Surf Journalism Expedition Blog #9

Enjoying the fruit.


She can see them in the distance. They look perfect, but seem small from so far away. She knows, just like always, they’ll be bigger once she gets there, and so begins her journey toward the prize. Looking from side to side—no one else is around. She’ll have each and every one to herself. Every long, peeling, perfect one. Her excitement builds, traveling faster now; she has never scored like this before.

Closer and closer…almost there…mouth watering at the sight of her very own set…all hers…none to share…not this time.

This is her chance.


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With one final movement, she arrives.

Sure enough, just as she thought, they were bigger than they looked, but not too big. They peeled down smoother than she could have foreseen. Each one seemingly longer than the last. The set seemed endless, picking out the ones she thought were the best. Never had she experienced this alone, and she loved it.

She notices a low rumbling roar. Looking down from her tree, she observes the waves reeling off the reef. She remains unaffected and turns back to her enormous set of yellow bananas. Picking the longest and ripest ones with her hairy hands, enjoying solitude with her perfect set of bananas.

She, and the roaring wave beneath her, continued peeling.

It’s called an “Astral Perspective”—seeing the world from another viewpoint, a different person, animal or thing. In this case, it’s a monkey. Astral Perspective is one of the techniques we’ve learned on this trip. It’s effective at the beginning of a story because it draws the reader in with curiosity. You may think I’m writing about a girl surfer at first, but you realize when “she looks down from her tree,” that she isn’t.

I’ve finally become confident in my writing. I’m beginning to enjoy it, sometimes even write through lunch. Surf journalism is not just writing essays, as this trip has shown me. It’s much more worthwhile, especially when you get to write about your passion. For me, right now, it’s these peeling waves.

Reader Comments 
Posted Fri Aug 8, 2008, 4:16 PM — By squid
There it floats, ready to roll around the bowl and down into the pipes. It was just dropped off, still warm. Then, as quickly as it was dumped out for the world to see, it's flushed and gone forever. Hey, this Astral Perspective thing is fun. You might have thought I was talking about the turd I took this morning, but I fooled you. I was really talking about Sev's article. FLUSH.
Posted Fri Aug 8, 2008, 5:01 PM — By Garret
Just a tip, don't imply your technique has worked ( "you may think..."). That verdict belongs to the reader alone. Good writing never calls attention to itself. Alas, that's tough to learn from a George.
Posted Fri Aug 8, 2008, 5:06 PM — By 23 Chips
The Chips has read a lot of bad writing, including all of these dispatches, but this is unbelievable. You're in Indo. There's tropical water and hollow barrels. Why are we reading about monkeys and bananas? The Chips is absolutely convinced that those barrels are not receiving proper treatment and will be boarding the next plane to Indo. 23 Chips
Posted Fri Aug 8, 2008, 7:54 PM — By Don't take candy from a George
This piece is the result of too much exposure to one or more Georges. Sev is smart, he went to one of the best private prep schools in the nation, but in a week Georges have him turning out...this. Why hasn't somebody put a stop to this program?
Posted Sat Aug 9, 2008, 12:31 PM — By The Woddler
In terms of sheer car crash entertainment value, these pieces cannot be beaten. On the other hand, they are soooooo depressing. Surf journalism has been on a downward spiral for so long, and these are the chosen saviours??? Here's a tip for the Georges and their proteges - read. Something other than surf porn. Maybe even (shock horror) a novel. It doesn't even have to be a Roth, McCarthy or De Lilo. Just something by an author who can write in a style other than mawkish cliche. Granted, as aspirant writers this may depress you, but hopefully it will also open up your eyes to the wonder of LITERATURE and genuinely innovative, moving prose. Please. The fate of surf writing is - apparently - in your hands.
Posted Sat Aug 9, 2008, 1:02 PM — By Erik the Red
Ah yes! Astral Projection! Good to know you're learning the fundamentals, the FOUNDATIONS of solid journalism (I get nostalgic thinking back to my first runs with AP in grad school at Columbia). AP is a mainstay from the NY Times to Nat Geo. It's not in the least bit silly, doesn't make the writer sound sophomoric and should be handy when interviewing the Gudauskus Brothers.
Posted Sun Aug10, 2008, 11:29 AM — By s rogers
boring writing , you have used the word ,"she" close to 15 times in a few paragraphs .i did not even bother to count how many times "her" was utilized. what is the deal with feminine possession? that is the quickest technique i have ever observed in disenfranchising the majority of the potential readers in an article regarding surfing in my life . my advice , don't quit your day job and retake some of the journalism and writing classes you are taking in school . or maybe there is a subtle attempt to equate women surfers or surf groupies with monkeys that simply just want a big bannana ?
Posted Mon Aug11, 2008, 5:33 AM — By LCDC
No one gives 2 sh@ts about monkeys or astral projection. The majority of us are sat behind our desks wanting to read about good waves and the experiences of people who are lucky enough to be traveling. Personally I'd like to read from a journalist who doesn't use the usual ,"sick", "pit", "stoked", "all time" boll@cks, or spout absolute cr@p similar to the article I've just wasted 2 minutes of my life reading and 5 minutes of my life writing a response to.
Posted Mon Aug11, 2008, 11:24 AM — By bongo drums
i must admit i haven't laughed out loud to myself in such a long time but reading these 8 updates above and following the surf journalism journey has been a revelation in more ways than one. firstly, what makes a good surf journalist? it seems the task becomes more challenging when you have to churn out surf lit for a living instead for a loving. from my own small perspective for one to write about the surfing lifestyle and all that it encompasses, one has to first experience the surfing life and to then be able to communicate that intuitively to others. essentially one must find one's own voice. i would suggest its egotistical to believe that one could become an overnight sensation at this stuff. we can't afford to overheat the esoteric with the ethereal without liberal helpings of the earthy to balance the delivery otherwise we're just all left hungry feeding on bland beige re-heated leftovers. here's my advice, jump ship find a leaky vessel and find your own way home writ

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