"There is nowhere else on earth I'd rather be right now."
This was the first thought running through my head as I lay in my bunk in the pre-dawn darkness. The sun rose to reveal clean rights peeling along the shallow reef just inshore of us. After a fun surf and our first class - a two hour introduction to surf journalism - we pulled anchor South to yet another perfect set up. There are flawless waves around every bend, but I'm sure you've heard it all before. What separates this expedition from the usual "surf and destroy" Mentawai boat trip, is the spirit of education and adventure. We are here not only to surf the waves of our lives, but to learn, create, and share in our experiences.
Along with the all-Indonesian crew, surf guides John and Ainslee, legendary surf journalists Matt and Sam George, we are also privileged to be accompanied by two Padang locals Patra and Mega. These amazing Muslim women join us as interpreters and cultural ambassadors, as we sail through these islands.
After only two days, it's becoming evident that this will be a unique and rewarding surf trip. One in which success is not only measured in empty lineups and offshore winds, but also in the smiles on the faces of those we inevitably touch and the lessons and experiences that will be with us for life.
READER COMMENTS
Mon Aug18, 2008, 6:20 PM
SHARK!
Mon Aug18, 2008, 6:46 PM
vote for charles webster baer of bend , oregon , usa , for president of earth . http://globalinternetgovernment.com .
Tue Aug19, 2008, 9:12 AM
Doc Paskowitz needs to publish his mistress memoirs. Maybe that half - wit editor Sam George and his third world poets will pitch in and get it done. I'm tired of reading about perfect Indo and the environment - bring on the perfect bimbo. Bless you Dorian P. - you'll never win Father of the Year - but your kids turned out to be very nice and generous surfers - at least the ones I met at San Onofre over the years. They share. Clearly you're a bit shy - but pls publish those x rated ideas before we all cave to a new round of morality, holy rollers, and endless photos of pre-puescent monkeys pulling airs.
Tue Aug19, 2008, 9:19 AM
"Love makes the world go round, and sex makes love go round." Classic. Tube riding makes surfing go round, brah. Mucho respect and admiration.
Tue Aug19, 2008, 9:54 AM
The movie makes it apparent that Doc Paskowitz is all about himself and never cared two cents about his kids in the long run. He actually makes a comment about his children not being educated enough to do x or y in life. He never let them become educated enough to make their own decisions, whether or not they wanted to pursue surfing or surgery. As for Doc's obsession with Makua Rothman, Doc acts like Makua was raised by a Hassidic family in Queens. This guy is not a surfing Icon. His family seems very nice, he seems like a complete douchebag.
Tue Aug19, 2008, 11:19 AM
Leave it to Baer to f-up a good story
Tue Aug19, 2008, 5:43 PM
hey coz , does a day go by where you dont think about me . http://globalinternetgovernment.com .
Tue Aug19, 2008, 6:18 PM
Baer, Nobody thinks about you, especially The Chips. 23 Chips
Wed Aug20, 2008, 12:43 PM
Chips, nobody cares about you either. Seamus, you are so wrong about the 'doc. Doc's family is intelligent, articulate, and well-adjusted. Two of his sons were surfing champions. Jonathon was a real fun loving guy, very cool, and fun to be around. Doc lived a long, fruitful life as a surfer. So what if he turned his back on civilization to surf? Smart move, in my opinion.
Wed Aug20, 2008, 5:38 PM
estaria buena eta pagina en espaņol!
Wed Aug20, 2008, 6:08 PM
You can actually surf the midwest i'm one of them and it does get pretty good here i came up here from south florida and now surf lake erie in Cleveland and we actually have more days of waves to surf here it gets pretty clean to but if he wants to be a farm boy from the midwest count me out u can have that job
Wed Aug20, 2008, 6:23 PM
Aloha making a judgment call on doc from what youve seen in the movie is short sided on your part.he is one of the warmest,most loving people we have on the planet,much less surfing.His advice and caring has helped me guided me over and over again. God bless you Doc...
Thu Aug21, 2008, 1:25 PM
I just watched the movie last night, I enjoyed it, very interesting on how after upon growing into adults how they didn't have much except surfing and their personalities to get bye on. I was really impressed with the family dynamic and that they all sucked it up at the end and put the animosity behind them to meet up in Hawaii to be all together again for probably the last time.
Thu Aug21, 2008, 2:25 PM
Oh Gawd - the quality of dialogue here makes me want to go throw a dart at the Slater article - but that's pretty tame stuff compared to Senor Tail Chaser - the Hasidic Trout - El Jefe Doc Paskowitz. Doc is way more interesting and fun than the whole tour put together - and let's face it - the guy has a few decent accomplishments including kids who are still trying hard in life to make it - when they should have been the worst beach bums the world ever created. More quotes from Doc and less crap from the tour bunnies - and how weird is the kindred spirit felt between Doc and "son of Drug Baron"? Hawaii my arse.
Thu Aug21, 2008, 5:50 PM
What a freak - come up for air Doc, your drowning in your self admiration.
Mon Aug25, 2008, 3:21 AM
I just read the miki dora book ALL FOR A FEW PERFECT WAVES highly recomend it
Wed Sep10, 2008, 11:57 PM
Hello Doc, You forgot one of your step children, Skippy Slater. Publish that book and don't let Matt or Sam George in on it, you do it. I love the way you raised your children, I love you and your lovely wife. I think you are a visionary and a wonderful person. You allowed 9 only children to grow up on their terms. No one today has that kind of confidence. Kelly was thrilled to come to Isreal, it was his pleasure to see many wonderful smiles on the faces of children who otherwise would never have gotten a chance to just be children, if just for a day. Thank you for treating my children like they are your own, what a compliment. I actually grew up in Rock Creek Park, Maryland, and Bethesda, Md. When I lived in Rock Creek, I grew up with all Jewish kids. I learned how to make a dreadle and sing the song in public school, we were the only ones with lights at Christmas. But I never thought about differences. Alot of the Jewish boys I beat up wanted to marry me, out of room. Love Judy Slater
Thu Oct 2, 2008, 6:39 PM
Is judy serious? You think those kids would have chosen to grow up sharing pants and watching their parents slam it out every night in a van? Maybe he and Mrs. Doc can get naked next to Kelly so he can get the full experience of being one of Doc's kids. Freakin clown.