SkinDog Skins Two Extra Large Checks at the Billabong XXL Awards 2007

Greg Long on his monster wave. Check out the official site xxl.billabong.com

XXL Biggest Wave

Name: Greg Long
Date: July 30, 2006
Location: Dungeons, South Africa

Back from the other side of the globe, two days after Greg Long rode what without question went down as the biggest wave ridden in 2006, Long paddled out at chest-high Lower Trestles, the same break he grew up surfing as a kid and the same break where he captured an NSSA national title in 2001 as an aspiring young amateur. He’s since taken on the roll of traveling hellman, chasing swells from South Africa to Morocco to Chile and Tasmania. But even for a demented, storm hunting world traveler like Long, home still is where the heart lies. Bobbing out in the Lowers lineup, a resident surfer paddled up to him and said, “I saw a photo of that wave you caught in South Africa, what the hell are you doing out here? Aren’t you kind of bored?” In his quiet, humble, unassuming way, Long replied, “I’m just relaxing...sometimes it’s nice to surf and not feel like you’re going to die.”