SURFERMAG.COM CURRENT ISSUE: VOL 44#1

The Chemistry of Fear (con't)

Brain Biochem Basics and the Adrenaline High

The fundamental question is this: what makes a risk taker's brain different? The answer, according to Dr. Zuckerman and other neurobiologists, is that in the brains of these individuals a number of key neurotransmitters aren't produced in sufficient quantity, stimulating the need for the adrenaline overdose.

In other words, in an attempt to normalize a mild abnormality in brain chemistry, these individuals experience an unconscious motivation to put themselves in fear-inducing situations, resulting in behavior that by "normal" standards appears to be "insane."

Take Virostko, for example. His reckless exploits in heavy surf at Maverick's have become legendary, but a story related to me by Shawn Alladio, of the K38 safety and rescue team, is a graphic example of how someone who could probably be diagnosed as a high-level sensation seeker is impacted by life-threatening situations.

The scenario took place last winter, on the biggest day of the season at Mavericks, when Flea raced into the pit on his ski to rescue partner Barney Barron who was about to take a set wave on the head. Heedless of the impending wall, Flea bore down on Barron, almost running him over, then missed the pick-up and was buried in a huge wall of white water. Spectators on the cliff and surfers in the water held their breath waiting-some claimed Flea and the ski were held down for over 10 seconds. Suddenly, riding like a madman, Flea burst out of the foam, turned, returned to the impact zone, pulled Barron from the pit and returned to the safety of the channel.