EUROPE: Genesis
EUROPE: Genesis
The drone of four giant Rolls Royce engines is nearly unbearable, like an orchestra of jackhammers, but somewhere along the eleven-hour flight from New York to Luxembourg, my head has stopped rattling and I’ve mentally added up the money we’ve saved by flying on Icelantic Airlines (fare: $319 round trip). Then, multiplying by the savings times four because Jim freeman, Mark Martinson and Bill Hamilton are vibrating in nearby seats, I forget about the noisy engines, claustrophobic conditions and bad service. It is the cheapest flight to Europe, and we’re making a film, “Waves of Change.” We don’t have a colossal Hollywood budget. Just enough for two months of beautiful European surf. Then the pitch of the orchestra changes, and the plane sinks into a hard landing.
Luxembourg: starchy customs men greet us with a glint in their eyes. We are suspect. All the elderly tourists have been allowed through. We are the last. “What’s in the cases and boxes,” a young agent translates his senior officer’s demands in monotone. “Just film and cameras,” we shrug, hoping they will assume the usual tourist Instamatics. “How much is it all worth?” they ask. “Oh about, er, $3,000?” I answer, feeling hot needles. They take my question as a statement. “You will place a $300 bond which will be refunded when you leave the country.” A gasp, then the realization that there is no other way to get into the country. We place the bond, glad we’d minimized.
Next a phone call: the Volkswagen van (ordered from California) is, amazingly enough, ready for us, and in no time we are wheeling around Luxembourg lost in a painted dream: red brick farm houses, rolling green fields with gray stone hedges, so much open, lush countryside. It’s difficult for Californians to imagine such a beautiful place escaping for centuries the bulldozer, concrete and prefab houses. It seemed unreal to us even in the center of it. But the inland blues are affecting the surfers, and “Biarritz or bust” is repeated over and over. We aim south.
July 30— Biarritz or Bust
We cross the border into France, collecting the $300 as we pass Go, and reach Paris with little time to stop and sightsee. We inadvertently pass the Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower when we lose our route signs in the city’s labyrinth. We have our first taste of combat on the streets of Paris, one of the most impressive cities in the world, and escape with the feeling we would be caught from behind and downed. But what surfer likes any city?
We are again traveling through the fertile French countryside, past the unearthly precision that is the Versailles Palace, through the rich Monet landscapes: streams crowded by weeping willows, fishermen sitting in row boats upon glass, perhaps waiting for a fish, perhaps bot. Other Frenchmen ride their bicycles along the roads shoulder wearing coveralls and berets. Cars are stopped at intervals along the side of the road for lunchtime picnics: tables, chairs, checkered cloths, bottles of wine, French bread and salami are set up a few feet from each parked car.
Hamilton takes the wheel in rotation. The road is two laned. Bill will pass three slow, tiny Citroens. “I’ll just pass them,” Bill says, when a truck approaches from the opposite direction. The driver of the Citroen beside us, instead of slowing and letting us in genteel-like, is hanging out of his window, shaking his fist and shouting unrecognizable French slurs. The truck grows closer— larger. We scream easily recognizable French slur. The truck grows closer— larger. We scream easily recognizable English at Hamilton. Bill swings off the lefthand shoulder (it could be a backside at Cotton’s): “What’s all the fuss about?” he asks, retaining his constant cool. We slouch in the VW seats and take a deep breath. Mark takes the wheel in rotation. Bill pouts because he didn’t get a long turn.
Freeman: August 1— Biarritz
Mark gets us there. Biarritz is in southwest France, on the Atlantic near the Spanish border. It crouches between land and the sea like a gentle afterthought. The town is like Laguna or Carmel, stacked high above coiffed coves with weaving roads and an architectural heritage rooted in the Napoleonic ethos. Now it is a fashionably busy French simmer resort. We cruise through the town’s complex of shops and displays, a bit lost, but with a direction: the Surf Club de France, where we’re to meet Joel de Rosnay. Our contact in Basque land.
We find Joel with Australian Keith Paull. The timing is so good we once again feel that we’ve found a groove: Joel has a villa for us to rent for the months we’ll be in Biarritz, and Keith has agreed to appear in the film. Mark and Billy immediately explain the rudiments of movie life, complete with rates for joining their union. Then Keith and Joel explain the basics of the bota bag: how to squeeze the wine into our dry mouths.
We leave the surf club for our new home. Picture a two-story, white plaster house, red weather shutters on the windows, a red tile roof. Put it above a secluded cove with a nice wave, far enough outside of Biarritz to be peaceful at night, and close enough to be interesting by day. Call it Villa Isabel. It was ours for 1600 Francs per month ($340). But other cottages are not as nice, and it is worth the extra to assure the morale of the crew. The five of us settle into Villa Isabel for the night, and we get acquainted with the newest member, Keith Paull: blond, but reserved, well built, 22 years old, with ambitions to see the world and shape the perfect surfboard. “He also eats a lot,” Joel warns, as he bids us good night, “Bon soir.” He also, like most Aussie surfers, takes a lot of showers. “He’s very clean,” Bill says. “Yes,” Mark frowned, “isn’t he.”
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READER COMMENTS
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 7:34 AM
Bummer, just as he was starting to come right competitively. I think the tour would be poorer for not having him around next year. A year making videos might be cool, but Jordy is ultimately a competitor and needs competition to drive him to the highs he's already achieved. Let's wish him a speedy recovery.
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 9:11 AM
Ouch....great timing!!! Hope he takes it easy and makes a full recovery. He is one of the few on tour who get me excited to watch.
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 11:38 AM
sh***t I wanted Jordy on my FSteam for all season next year..... sorry but screw aritz!!! jordy is the man,,,,,,,
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 12:09 PM
sick. more video parts!
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 1:00 PM
Do those calculations take into account Bruce retiring and AI maybe taking a year out?
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 1:12 PM
Jordy, s one of those guys that everyone wants to see. His Sunset performance in serious waves was simple insane, by far the best surfer out there. He surfs Pipe everyday he's in Hawaii, but he would still have a hard time getting out of round 2 with the local talent. That being said, I am sure he will req. right on the bubble or get an injury spot because he was inside the bubble before the injury occurred. The tour needs him and Dane, maybe with another year on the WCT they can start giving Slater a run
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 2:56 PM
I did both of my knees as Jordy did last winter. Not career ending by no means. Hyperbaric chamber mention is the first sign he's on it. Worst deal will be the 'avoidance syndrome' that occurs being these injuries mess with your head and confidence big time. Good luck JS, you'll be proper, maybe they give him the Timmy R treatment and get him a medical waiver...
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 4:55 PM
wont he get an injury wildcard?
Tue Dec 9, 2008, 10:25 PM
Jordy is a cocky kook who should be kicked off the tour just like kerr ill be glad to see the man who was supposed to be world champ in his first year get blown off. Dane reynolds is the man.
Wed Dec10, 2008, 12:43 AM
He will be sweet , Dhob has secured a spot and with bruce retiring should go back to #28 so . Cambo is out , just need Dunne or Pires to faulter and Jordy will be sweet
Wed Dec10, 2008, 1:18 AM
Check the results from round one today at Pipe. Jordy looks like he is catching a luck break, a huge chunk of the guys chasing him are gone already. Has to suck for it to be out of his hands though...
Wed Dec10, 2008, 2:32 AM
hope u get better jordy! no stress you still rip!
Wed Dec10, 2008, 3:28 AM
Hard Luck Jordy. Not the greatest performance on tour this year but then again KS did not have the best rookie start. The tour would be crazy not to award a wild card. You had performed well enough to date and you rip on the North Shore. Good Luck and get well.
Wed Dec10, 2008, 4:04 AM
yeah that is great comment berto (not) u say the guy is a kook; like to see u go surf sunset the way he ripped it up. The guy deserves to be on the tour for the next year, his surfing is some of the most exciting and keeps me coming back to the screen for more.
Wed Dec10, 2008, 6:34 AM
Jordy represents for S.Africa, if he's out of the CT for next year, he'll be back soon!! he musnt waste his time with video's next year, he should go straight back onto the QS. Go Jordy, you da man!!!!
Wed Dec10, 2008, 7:54 AM
aw man! sorry this happened man, this sucks. praying for a speedy recovery so you can get back in the water!
Wed Dec10, 2008, 9:25 AM
Hey Jords, no worries...you are our champion in South Africa..legends come in time buddy and you'll get there!!!!
Wed Dec10, 2008, 9:59 AM
Berto you have no idea what you are talking about...Kook. To expect a World Title from a 20 year old in his first year is just crazy. Especially with Fanning & Co in their prime...You are right about Dane being the man, but Jordy will bring as much to the sport as any one of the world champs... Rest well Jordy, looks like your place is safe for now...
Wed Dec10, 2008, 11:37 AM
Jordy shreds. He will come right on the tour next year. Dane shreds too. Berto, you're a doosh!
Wed Dec10, 2008, 2:03 PM
We were at Sunset watching Jordy Smith when his injury occurred. The poor guy was in pain, and yet nobody came to meet him when he came out of the water (except us). He put on a brave smile despite the pain, and all I could think of was why nobody was there to help him - when it was evident from the start of the heat that 'something' was wrong. His performance prior to the injury was superb. His perfect 10 ride was a sight to behold. Get better soon, Jordy.YOu were definitely the best surfer at that O'Neill final.
Wed Dec10, 2008, 2:30 PM
Jordy was doing some Chipsesque hacks at Big Sunset but The Chips noticed that he claims more than a Brazilian. Maybe they can fix his arm when they take care of his knee. The Chips wishes him a speedy recovery and if he wants to do some real rehab he knows who to call. 23 Chips
Wed Dec10, 2008, 3:10 PM
forza jordy...youre the best...stay calm
Wed Dec10, 2008, 10:53 PM
JORDY IS IN ........EVRY ONE WHO COULD RUIN IT FOR HIM IS NOW OUT OF THE EVENT. HE WILL SLOT IN AT #27
Thu Dec11, 2008, 4:26 AM
Best Sunset performance ever. There, I said it. Think about it, seriously. Ever notice how WCT guys make Hawaiians look stiff? Well, Jordy was making everyone, including all the locals look really stiff out there. If it was Backdoor Shootout format, he woulda won no prob. Maybe this time off will give him time to meditate and relax, and stop trippin out on everyone. Jordy, people suck, surfers suck, don't be a jock, smile at people, do something different. whatevs
Thu Dec11, 2008, 10:30 AM
Does anyone know if Jordy has requalified?
Fri Dec12, 2008, 11:17 AM
Its official, Jordy Smith is on the 'CT next year at #27 suck it up haters. It would be a travesty if the likes of Jordy and Dane weren't on the tour. As for bleating about him claiming etc I would much rather watch an aggressive competitor (who claims) competing as opposed to the hearing and seeing the tiresome " I dont really care about the tour " attitude some pro's flaunt. At least BI has bowed out on his terms, respect, its not for him. But to the rest who can't muster a proffessional attitude saying you dont care is an insurance policy in case you choke - simple. Rest up, heal up and give it horns Mr Smith. Plenty more 10's to come.
Mon Dec22, 2008, 8:05 PM
Between Dane & Jordy Dane wins. Dane's missed more contests but placed higher. He surfed half the amount of QS's 2 years ago and still finished 2nd. Bottom line is Dane's better. Now. Jordy. He's better than De Souza, Flores, Stedman, Ward, Reyes, Otton, Whitaker, Bruce, Perrow, Neve, both Hobgoods, all Europeans and all Brazilians. He deserves to be on the tour. He should hit top 10 next year. Mick Fanning has to pick it up. He's too robotic him and Jordy need to take a little bit of each others surfing to mix it up. Fanning is the 2nd best surfer in the world but not creative enough like Slater. You can guess exactly what he's going to do each wave. Jordy is an X factor but just needs a little fanning machinery in him.