DISPATCH: Outer Banks - Sinking Treasure

In the thin sliver of sand that is the Outer Banks, down-home Southern living and surf culture mesh. The result? A genuinely unique slice of Americana.

This precarious positioning pretty much explains the Outer Banks' significance to the surfing world; the continental shelf narrows here allowing Atlantic energy to arrive onshore intact. By the same turn, it leaves the land exceptionally vulnerable to bouts of raw oceanic force. In September of 2003, Hurricane Isabel washed a good portion of the Atlantic completely across the island, forming a new inlet. The surge left many Banks dwellers stranded and required a mass displacement of dredged sand to fill the void.

Postponing erosion is an uphill battle, but one residents must engage to survive. The candy-striped Cape Hatteras Lighthouse—America’s tallest beacon to the sea-faring world—embarked on a 23-day, 2,900-foot relocation project in 1999. The entire project cost $9.8 million and represents the largest of the Outer Banks’ daily spats with Mother Nature.

The Skinny:

On the Banks, perfect sandbars remain a nomadic tribe and surfers are perpetually hunting for them. In early June, the chase heats up when long-period south swells kick-off the hurricane season. That’s when toasty barrels shine above the rim of dune grass and get burned into wall-mounted frames.

While hurricanes offer well-organized groundswell, it’s somewhat of a misconception that they ensure Carolina corduroy. Hines insists spontaneous nor’easters serve up the best waves of the season. Says Hines, “I think the northeasters are better swells; usually they’re more powerful. Last year we had a bunch of hurricane swells, but the best swell we had was a local northeaster. It was the best day of the summer, and no one was down here because there was no hype.”

The Ride:

S-Turns: “That’s where it’s the most consistent,” says Hines. “It’s always bigger there than everywhere else. It’s peaky and spread out, and it breaks pretty close to the beach.” S-Turns has become the bread-and-butter of the Outer Banks surf experience. If there’s an inkling of regional swell, you can bet that a stack of surf vehicles will line NC-12.

Avalon Pier: Avalon is a more rippable wave that doesn’t necessarily follow S-Turns’ paddle, crouch-and-barrel model. The size of the crowd is a testament to its consistency. North of Pea Island this is probably your best bet. Cape Hatteras Lighthouse: Some fabled heavy-water sessions have taken place here. “If it’s a big day, it’ll break there,” says Hines. “That’s the spot that can hold big swell. The Lighthouse is the place to be on a northeast swell.”

The Unknown: Here lies the beauty of the Outer Banks: If you so desire, you can share a barreling beachbreak with a few friends—and without unreasonable effort. All you need is four-wheel drive, a tent, and a willingness to explore trackless sand. Hines recalls his latest expedition: “The other day everywhere was breaking kind of weird and we just found this random spot in the middle of Pea Island; it was empty and just going off. You can always find a peak to yourself if you feel like exploring.”

Danger:

Sharks: Between 2000 and 2006 there were 17 shark attacks in North Carolina. Only one was fatal, but it’s no secret that dorsal fins jet through these waters. Granted, the International Hunter Education Association predicts you’re about 48 times more likely to be shot by a hunter during your stay in the Outer Banks, but the Jaws factor is certainly noteworthy.

Water moccasins: “I had to blow one up the other day with a shotgun,” said Hines. Snakes are a legitimate threat in the wetlands, so make like Hines and exercise your Second Amendment.

Quicksand: Not the kind you’re thinking of. It’s more like the kind that requires a tow truck and a red face of shame. Take some air out of your tires and shift into 4WD Low should you choose to explore. And if you’re parking roadside, leave two wheels on the pavement.

The Weather: Last year, a Thanksgiving northeaster caused 12 houses to be condemned in a single neighborhood. Considering the ocean swallows almost 12 feet of Pea Island each year, this skinny filet seems like a late-night snack for the Atlantic.

Drugs: Dubbed “Operation Season’s Greetings,” the Department of Crime Control and Public Safety called the 1999 drug raid on the Outer Banks one of the biggest ever in North Carolina. The DEA has been known to camp out every now and then. “People get bored here and get into bad stuff,” says Hines.

Nudists: There’s no one down on Pea Island, so people like to take advantage of it. “We used to call one place ‘Flamers’ because there were naked guys out there all the time,” Hines explains.

Room and board:

Camping: Break out the tents and trailers, because camping is the new skim milk here. Check out North Beach, right by Joe-Bob’s Trading Post (that’s really the name of the place) or KOA or any number of the campgrounds down south.

Grinds:

Mama Kwan's: “It’s like Wahoo’s except better,” says Hines. “I always get the pork plate. If you don’t like it you can have my fish tacos.”

High Cotton BBQ: Get some ’cue and slaw and hush puppies and sweet tea and a pickle—and a monster truck too while you’re at it.

Lisa's Pizzeria: Everything's good, but your two best options are the 12” chicken cutlet sandwich drenched in Italian dressing or the chicken and pesto pizza. Mmmm.