SURFERMAG.COM CURRENT ISSUE Vol. 45 #4
SURFER: Are you referring to your first thrusters?
TOM CURREN: Yeah, but actually the twin fins brought me my first big breakthrough. I remember the first time I tried one of those I was flying along with Al right there, sitting on the shoulder seeing what was going to happen. I kicked out next to him on this one and he told me, "You know, you could have made that section." I realized on the very next wave that he was right. The speed they supplied was--well, people underestimate the impact boards like that had on performance.
SURFER: It's funny, because much was made of the influence Rabbit had on you, but in the footage of you surfing Rincon at 15 or 16-years-old it's pretty obvious Mark Richards played a part too.
TOM CURREN: Oh yeah, it was all about M.R. back then. I met him in South Africa in 1981 and I noticed every little thing about him and his boards. He had two twin fins on that trip, and he kept them immaculate. If he got a ding he'd repair them perfectly and add a gloss coat. He never had a scratch on them. He made his own wax too.
SURFER: What?
TOM CURREN: Yeah, he had his own wax. So when I went on tour years later I'd bring my own repair kit with gloss and everything, I tried to make my own wax, but that didn't go over as well (laughs).
SURFER: I recall you mutilating your equipment--reshaping squash tails into swallows with a nail file the day before a heat.
TOM CURREN: Yeah, (Laughs)...that was during my more nihilistic phase, it came a little later.
SURFER: It must have been fun to be at the forefront of all those design changes.
TOM CURREN: Oh, yeah, it was a blast. You could feel changes in the air.
SURFER: When you look at those who've followed, like Kelly and Andy, what is it about their surfing you most admire?
TOM CURREN: Everything. To me it's just amazing what these guys are doing today. I was in the shop the other day watching this video of Kelly and, y'know, as best as I could do on my best day, he's still going to blow me out of the water. It's pretty cool. It's exactly how you you'd imagine you'd want to surf.
SURFER: Are there areas where you think we're still lagging, be they performance or equipment?
TOM CURREN: Personally, I do think boards are going to change very soon. We've been saying it for 10 or 15 years now, but I do think materials will change, and boards will be faster than they are now.
SURFER: So what will they offer? More flow and speed.
TOM CURREN: I think they're already fast and loose, but they'll be even faster and just as loose, and I think materials will have a lot to do with it.
SURFER: Is this your theory or just your hope?
|
READER COMMENTS
Sun Mar30, 2008, 3:58 AM
Absolute respect..... In my later years (39 now), my respect levels for Tom Curren are immenece. The guys tallent, pride, wholesome nature and place on this planet, are to be admired. Would love to see some more surfing from him, but with age (as I am learning) time becomes an issue.
Thu Jul 3, 2008, 3:11 PM
I agree with Joel about the whole pic. Love TC, Occy at the time I start surfing they were the "guys". Now at 41, a f... knee I fell still like a child, but need get easy some times cuz the knee prob. But Still love suffing and chat with some old fellas... Thanks. It was a good reading.
Thu Jul24, 2008, 3:22 AM
I own a cool bar in Delray Beach, Florida. You've been my dream since I was a kid.....I'm 39 now...met you in Huntington once, then Jersey again. It would be my pleasure to have you play within my bar, THE BULL BAR, if there's no swell Tommy.... Cheers!!! Alyce Christine Beck
Fri Oct16, 2009, 12:22 PM
I think in some ways he's paid the price for being an introvert in a culture that worships extroversion. It's great to see more in-depth interviews like this where you can see the wisdom & greater inner peace he's gained over the years.