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Worst Wipeout
CAN
YOU REMEMBER YOUR FIRST WAVE?
Asked
December, 2000 on the North Shore of Oahu,
HI.
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Roberto
Moura, 11
Student
"It was on a longboard in Brazil. It felt Good. I wasn't even sideways;
I was across like this "[demonstrates a feet-together, forward-facing skierstance]. |
Ryan
Deseixas, 11
Student
"Yeah, it was a weird feeling. I was gliding over the water and stuff,
it was fun. It was white water when I caught it, then it doubled up. I
kept going on the reform to the sand." |
Heidi
Malone, 20
Ice cream Girl
"It was in Daytona Beach when I was 14 with my dad. He took me out on his
longboard and pushed into a wave. I just remember it was a cool feeling,
so smooth, and I stood up all by myself. I was so happy." |
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Nai Ahuna,
41
Windsurfing Instructor
"It was on the Big Island when I was 6. I found a board with no nose in
a rubbish can. The board was beat, so I didn't care about riding my first
wave into the rocks."
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Dan Malloy,
22
Pro Surfer
"No, but I remember the first time I went down the line on a wave. That
was the second I became a surfer. I remember being a young kid playing
games, but this was like taking it to a different level. It was clear I
was going to do this forever." |
Sophia
Nelson, 28
Chemistry Student
"It was at a beach break in Northern California. It felt like the water
dropped out from under me. I didn't even know I caught it. It was over
really quick." |
Sierra
Huifman, 24
Model
"I was 13 at Sunset Cliffs in San Diego. I didn't stand up, but I rode
it in anyway. There was a ton of seaweed floating in the water, and I got
tangled up in it. The time I actually stood up was in Western Australia
at my uncle's surfing school. I remember feeling more confident. I stood
up and it was the most amazing thing I'd ever felt." |
Rabbit
Kekai, 80
Beach Marshal/Surfer
"It was in Waikiki at a place called Public Bath. I was about 5 years old,
on one of my uncle's Koa Boards. It was about 14 feet long and weighed
about 200 pounds. I stood up for the first time and I couldn't believe
it. I was so stoked, yuou know? Yahoo! And after that, it started to come
natural to me." |
Karyn
Montgomery, 19
Student
"Yeah, I went backward. I was in the whitewash trying to learn how to stand
up, and I caught a wave backwward. I was 16 riding a gun in Kauai in front
of my house at Key Hole. I was just paddling out when the whitewater caught
me, so I just stood up and went with it." |
Vandi
Esquires, 9
Student
"I was 3, and I stood up on a boogie board at Sunset when it was really
small. I ate it becaruse I didn't know how to turn and the wave was going
a certain way and I ran into a rock. It hurt my head, and it started to
bleed and I had to put a band-aid on it and then I lay down to rest because
I had a headache and then I took a nap and then I woke up and I wanted
to go surfing again." |
Laila
Gailitas
Public Affairs Admin
"I was 9 years old the first time I got barreled. That's what I count as
my first wave. First I was scared, then it felt like I was floating then
I got barreled. The sound in the tube, that's what hooked it. It was very
blue, and the vibration inside was very loud." |
Vava Rubeiro,
31
Photographer
"I was a skinny little guy, and I couldn't even carry my board to the beach.
A friend of my siste pushed me into a wave. I stood up and rode all the
way in. From then on, my life changed. It was almostas if I could fly.
Once you go there, once you feel that, you can never go back. It's almost
like touching heaven."
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